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Wisteria is one of the most loved flowering climbers in UK gardens. In spring, there is nothing quite like its cascading, fragrant blooms spilling over pergolas, doorways, or stone walls. They bring a timeless sense of nostalgia and romance to old houses, historic estates, and traditional English cottages. Once established, Wisteria grows quickly and doesn’t need much care. It’s impressively long-lived, and will reward you with beautiful blooms year after year. No wonder wisteria is such a popular choice among our customers at Arundel Arboretum. We offer a wide selection of wisteria varieties, from classic purple blooms to softer shades of white and pink. If you’re thinking about buying wisteria and adding it to your garden, this guide will help you choose the right variety. You’ll also find plenty of helpful tips on how to grow and care for it successfully. Choosing the Best Wisteria for UK Gardens Which wisteria is right for you: •    The most fragrant wisteria? Try Brachybotrys•    Wisteria with longest cascades? Choose Macrobotrys.•    Fast-growing wisteria? Go with Sinensis•    Best wisteria for small gardens & patios? Wisteria clear stem or wisteria umbrella-trained form.•    Best wisteria for pergolas and walls? Sinensis or Floribunda trained on cane or arches. Choosing the right wisteria can feel a bit overwhelming. To help you decide, here are the best wisteria varieties we offer at Arundel Arboretum and what makes each of them special. Wisteria brachybotrys – Silky Wisteria - Fragrant, Compact and Beautiful. This wisteria has large velvety leaves, sweet scent, and slightly less vigorous growth compared to other varieties. It is perfect for smaller gardens and gardeners that are enchanted by its sweet fragrance. In our arboretum, we offer: Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Iko yama Fuji’ A compact, beautifully scented wisteria with plenty of soft lilac flowers that won’t overwhelm smaller spaces. Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Showa-beni’ A vigorous climber with pale pink blooms, yellow centres and strong, pleasant fragrance that fills the garden in late spring. Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Golden King’ Notable for its golden green foliage that turns bright yellow in autumn and pale violet to lavender-blue flowers with sweet and pleasant fragrance. Wisteria sinensis – Chinese Wisteria – Vigorous, Free-Flowering and Reliable Chinese wisteria is known for its anticlockwise-twining stems, early and abundant flowering, often before the leaves appear, and beautiful sweet fragrance. It is very vigorous and ideal for large pergolas, walls, and archways. We offer: Wisteria sinensis ‘Prolific' As the name suggests, this variety delivers masses of fragrant, purple-violet flowers. Ideal for everything from sunny walls to centrepiece containers. It flowers at a younger age compared to other varieties.   Wisteria sinensis ‘Alba’ Elegant variety with pure white, fragrant flowers that open before the leaves appear. A great choice if you’re after a softer, more classic look that blends beautifully with both cottage-style and more minimalistic gardens. Wisteria sinensis ‘Shiro Kapitan Fuji’ Known for masses of highly fragrant, snow-white flowers, golden yellow leaves in autumn, and vigorous growth. Perfect for gardeners who want a strong climber that offers year-round interest, not just spring blooms. Wisteria floribunda – Japanese Wisteria Japanese wisteria is famous for its breath-taking racemes, sometimes reaching up to a metre. Flowers open gradually from top to bottom, and create a stunning waterfall effect from late spring to early summer. The most popular is: Wisteria floribunda ‘Macrobotrys’ One of the longest-flowering wisterias, with violet-purple blooms and yellow centres on racemes that can exceed 1 metre in ideal conditions. Its graceful, trailing habit is perfect for large pergolas or feature walls. Wisteria Forms Available at Arundel Arboretum We offer our wisteria varieties in a range of beautifully trained shapes to suit all kinds of gardens. Whether you’ve got a spacious garden or a small patio, there’s a shape that will be perfect for you. •    Cane-trained climbers – Great for covering fences, walls, or pergolas. Easy to train and perfect for varieties like Prolific, Golden King, and Macrobotrys.•    Clear stem / Standard forms – Neat and upright, ideal for pots, patios, or adding structure to borders. Popular options include Showa-beni and Alba.•    Umbrella / Roof espalier – Trained for a dramatic, cascading effect. Perfect over seating areas or as a standout feature on the patio. Try Prolific or Shiro Kapitan Fuji.•    Arch or frame-trained – Ready-made focal points for entrances or walkways, ideal for instant impact. Look out for our Sinensis Arch Mix. Where to Plant Wisteria in the UK for Best Flowering Results Wisteria is a tough plant and can easily survive UK winters, making it suitable for all UK regions. It tolerates temperatures as low as -15°C to -20°C. However, young plants may need a bit of protection during their first winter, particularly in exposed gardens. While the plant itself is hardy, flower buds can be damaged by late spring frosts, especially in colder areas. Wisteria thrives in sunny places with at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. South or west-facing walls are ideal for abundant blooms. Try to avoid overly exposed and windy spots because they can damage young shoots.  It grows best in moist but well-drained soil that’s neutral to slightly acidic or alkaline. It doesn’t like waterlogged conditions. It prefers loamy and sandy soil rich with organic matter. Still, avoid soil that is too fertile as it can lead to lots of leafy growth but fewer flowers. How to Train Wisteria on a Pergola or a Wall With the right support and a bit of guidance, wisteria can become one of the most beautiful features in your garden. Here are some simple tips to help you train it properly, whether on pergola or a wall. Training Wisteria on a Wall 1.    Start by fixing strong horizontal wires to the wall. Make them 30 cm apart.2.    Use vine eyes to leave a bit of space between a wall and the wires. This is important for the air to circulate.3.    Plant wisteria about 30-45 cm away from the wall.4.    As it grows, choose a few strong shoots and tie them to the wires. Spread them to create a fan shape.5.    Prune to keep it tidy and encourage lots of flowers. Training Wisteria on a Pergola 1.    Make sure the pergola is strong enough as wisteria can get quite heavy over time.2.    Choose the right variety. Japanese wisteria is ideal for pergolas because of its long trailing flowers.3.    Plant it 30-45 cm from the base of the post.4.    Guide the main stems up the pergola posts and tie them in as they grow.5.    When they reach the top, train the side shoots along the crossbeams to create a canopy.6.    Trim down any extra shoots to give flowers space to hang. Twisting Direction and Why It Matters Different types of wisteria twist in different directions. The best practice is to let them follow their natural growth.•    Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria) twines anticlockwise.•    Wisteria floribunda (Japanese) and Wisteria brachybotrys twine clockwise.If you try to force stems in the opposite direction, it can stress the plant and slow its growth. Knowing which way your wisteria naturally grows, makes training so much easier. When to Prune Wisteria in the UK Wisteria needs pruning twice a year to keep it the neat and tidy and make sure it gives a lot of flowers. Its reputation of being difficult to prune isn’t really deserved. Once you understand the basic routine, it becomes an easy job. The key is being consistent. The young wisteria should not be pruned until it covers the wall or pergola. In the UK, the first prune is best done in summer, in July or August. That’s when you cut back the long, whippy shoots to just above five or six leaves. The second prune should be in winter, in January or February, when you trim those same shoots even further, down to two or three buds. This winter prune will help wisteria produce a lot of flowers when spring arrives. How to Feed Wisteria Plants & General Care To keep your wisteria healthy and help it put on a spectacular display, feeding and watering properly is essential.•    Feeding: Proper feeding boosts flower production. The best fertiliser for wisteria is a balanced slow-release fertiliser with an NPK of around 10-20-10. Try fertilisers like Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone. Apply it in spring at the recommended rate. If the soil is sandy, you can add a bit of sulphate of potash for extra support. For wisteria grown in containers, use liquid tomato fertiliser, Phostrogen, Miracle-Gro or a similar flowering plant food. Apply it every couple of weeks during the growing season. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers, which encourage the leaf growth instead of flowers.•    Watering: Water newly planted wisteria regularly to help it establish strong roots. Once established, wisteria is tolerant to drought, but it needs regular watering during hot weather. Do not overwater as it hates waterlogged conditions. If you are growing wisteria in containers, water when the top of the soil feels dry.•    Mulching: A layer of organic mulch around the base helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Apply around 5 cm and keep it away from the stem to prevent the rot. Common Wisteria Issues and How to Fix Them Even though wisteria is generally easy to grow, a few common issues can pop up along the way, but most are simple to fix with the right approach. 1.    Not Enough FlowersThis is the most common problem with wisteria plants. It’s usually caused by too much nitrogen in soil, poor pruning, or planting an inadequate plant.How to Fix: Avoid fertilisers high in nitrogen, prune twice a year and make sure you bought a plant that is grafted or at the age of flowering. 2.    Overgrowth and TanglesWisteria is a vigorous grower and it can become a tangled mess if you let it.How to Fix: Be consistent with pruning routine – prune twice a year, in summer and winter. 3.    Leaves Turning YellowIt can be poor drainage and lack of nutrients.How to Fix: Make sure the soil is not soggy and drains well. Apply balanced fertiliser in spring. 4.    Parts of the Plant Dying BackIt might be root rot, honey fungus, damage from wind, or old age.How to Fix: Check for signs of fungal issues. Make sure the soil is not waterlogged. Cut back any dead wood or affected stems. 5.    Pests and DiseasesWisteria is generally resistant to pests, but sometimes aphids or scale insects can become a problem.How to Fix: Wash them off with water or spray with a mild insecticidal spray if needed. 6.    Collapsing or Poor SupportAs it gets older, wisteria can get quite heavy. If the structure is not strong enough, the plant may start to sag or collapse.How to Fix: Use strong, permanent supports. Regularly check and replace ties as the plant grows. Conclusion As you can see, Wisteria is a low-maintenance plant that brings beauty, fragrance, and a touch of romance to your garden. With so many varieties to choose from, there’s something to suit every space. If you’re ready to add one to your garden, visit us at Arundel Arboretum, in Chichester, West Sussex, or explore our online store to find the perfect wisteria variety. If you need any help, our friendly team is always ready to offer advice or assist you in finding your perfect wisteria.      

If you want a touch of Mediterranean tranquillity and timeless beauty in your garden, plant olive trees! Yes, growing them outside their native climate can be tricky - but with the right care, it’s absolutely possible. This practical olive tree care and maintenance guide will help you understand what olive trees need to thrive. Olive trees can be grown both in containers and in the ground, depending on your space and climate.  Each option comes with slightly different care needs, so we’ll share clear tips to help you succeed whatever approach you choose. How to Care for Olive Trees in Pots Olive trees in pots and containers are a great way to bring Mediterranean feel to small gardens, patios, and balconies no matter where you live. They are especially useful for colder areas as they can be moved indoors during the winter. Choosing the Right Container To keep your olive tree healthy and comfortable, choose a large and sturdy pot that gives the roots enough room to grow. It should be at least 40cm wide and deep. Drainage holes at the bottom are essential since olive trees hate waterlogged soil. Terracotta pots are ideal as they provide excellent airflow and drainage. The Best Spot for Potted Olive Tree Place your olive tree in the sunniest, warmest spot you can find. These Mediterranean plants love sun and need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. If possible, place them against a south-facing wall for extra warmth and wind protection. That’s especially helpful in colder UK regions where sunlight is less intense. The Best Soil for Olive Trees in Pots While planting in the ground can be limiting because of the garden’s natural soil type, planting in containers allows you to create the perfect blend of soil from the start. A loam-based compost, like John Innes No. 3 is ideal for olive trees grown in containers. It has a lot of nutrients and lets water flow through. To improve drainage and aeration, mix in grit, perlite, or sharp sand. Avoid moisture-retentive composts as they can lead to root rot. Best Soil Mix for Olive Trees in Containers:•    60-70% loam-based compost•    20-30% horticultural grit or sharp sand (for better drainage and airflow)•    5-10% of perlite or fine bark (optional, for additional aeration)•    A handful of garden lime (optional, if the mix is too acidic) How Often to Water Olive Trees in Containers Olive trees come from hot and dry regions where the soil drains quickly. They are naturally drought-tolerant and don’t like excess moisture. When grown in the UK, overwatering is one of the biggest mistakes gardeners make. With less sun and more moisture, the soil stays wet longer which can lead to root rot. The golden rule is – only water when the top few centimetres of soil feel completely dry. How to Feed Olive Trees in Containers Feed your potted olive trees every 4 to 6 weeks during spring and summer. The best fertilisers for potted olive trees is balanced liquid fertilisers or those formulated for fruiting trees, high in potassium. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers as they can lead to excessive leaf growth. Never feed in autumn and winter. To prevent root burn, water thoroughly before you apply fertiliser. How to Protect Potted Olive Trees in Winter UK Potted trees are more vulnerable to frost, therefore, they need to be protected during the winter. Here is how:•    Move the pot to a sheltered spot. Ideally, place them in a greenhouse or unheated  conservatory. If you don’t have them, move them to the porch or by a south-facing wall. •    Wrap the pot, not the plant. Wrap the container with fleece, bubble wrap, or hessian  to protect the roots.  •    Raise the pot off the ground. Prevent it from sitting in cold and wet conditions.•    Reduce watering. Water only occasionally throughout the winter.•    Use fleece covers. On very cold nights, cover the plant with horticultural fleece but    remove it during the day.  How to Grow Olive Trees in the Ground Best Garden Location for Olive Trees Olive trees love sun and where you place them in your garden makes all the difference. They need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, so a south or south-west facing spot is ideal. Planting near a brick or stone wall can be helpful, too. Walls soak the heat during the day and release it at night. Avoid low spots or hollows where cold air and water can collect. Olive trees hate wet and shady areas. Best Soil for Olive Trees in the Ground In their native habitat, olive trees grow in dry and rocky soil. They prefer well-drained soil with neutral to slightly alkaline pH. When you touch it, it shouldn’t feel sticky and heavy, but light and crumbly. If your soil isn’t ideal improve it by adding sand or grit. Avoid overly rich composts that retain moisture.  How to Water Olive Trees in the Ground Newly planted olive trees need regular watering during the first year. This means watering once or twice a week. After the first year, olive trees become tolerant to drought. In most UK gardens, natural rainfall is enough, but during very hot days, if the topsoil looks dry, give it a good soak. How to Feed and Mulch Olive Trees in the Ground Olive trees planted in the ground do not need heavy feeding. Apply a balanced fertiliser or a potassium-rich fertiliser for fruit trees in early spring, and again in midsummer. Avoid too much nitrogen because you will get a lot of foliage and little fruit. Mulch in spring with well-rotted compost or bark chips to suppress weeds and retain moisture. In winter, mulch to insulate the roots. Winter Protection for Olive Trees in the Ground Olive trees planted in the ground are more resilient than potted ones. They can tolerate cold down to around -10 °C but they still need protection in colder parts of the UK. Here is how to protect olive trees from frost: •    Check soil drainage. Make sure your soil doesn’t hold water after rain. If it does improve drainage.•    Apply a thick mulch. In autumn, mulch around the base of the tree to insulate roots.•    Stop watering and fertilising. During the winter, a tree enters a natural dormant state.•    Wrap young trees. With horticulture fleece or breathable fabric, loosely wrap the canopy of young trees during severe frosts.•    Monitor the weather. During extremely harsh winters, wrap even mature olive trees. Young vs. Mature Olive Trees: Pruning Guide Pruning is very important for healthy growth. How and why you prune slightly differ depending on the tree’s age and if the tree is planted in the ground or in a pot. Young olive trees, whether potted or not, need good formative pruning to establish a strong, open structure. When buying a young olive tree, look for one with a single straight trunk and evenly spaced side branches.  In the first few years, remove any weak, crossing, or overly vertical branches. The goal is to achieve good airflow and balanced growth. Mature olive trees need regular but light annual pruning. Every year, remove dead, damaged, or crowded growth. The goal is to maintain good airflow and manage the tree’s size. Trees planted in the ground can tolerate more vigorous pruning, while potted olive trees should be pruned more gently to avoid stressing the plant. Seasonal Care Calendar for Olive Trees UK This simple calendar will help you stay on track and keep your olive trees happy and healthy all year round. Spring (March–May)•    Feed: Start monthly feeding.•    Water: Increase watering. Water only when soil is dry.•    Prune: Remove dead or damaged branches.•    Repot: Best time to repot if roots are crowded Summer (June–August)•    Feed: Continue feeding every 4–6 weeks.•    Water: Water regularly in hot weather. Avoid overwatering.•    Position: Keep in full sun. Protect from strong winds Autumn (September–November)•    Feed: Stop feeding by late September.•    Water: Reduce watering frequency.•    Check: Look for pests and clean foliage before moving indoors. Winter (December–February)•    Protect: Move to a frost-free, sheltered spot or indoors.•    Water: Water only when soil is completely dry.•    Insulate: Wrap pots and elevate them from the ground. Regional Olive Tree Care Tips for UK Gardeners Some regional differences within the UK may affect how you care for your olive trees. Here is what to keep in mind: Growing Olive Trees in Southern UK•    Olive trees can be kept outdoors most of the year.•    On frosty days, in-ground trees must be protected.•    Watering and feeding may last a bit longer into the autumn because of longer                    growing season. Growing Olive Trees in Northern UK & Scotland•    Winters are much colder so the trees should be brought indoors during the winter.•    Strong winds are another problem therefore the trees must be sheltered.•    Watering and feeding should start later because the spring arrives later. Growing Olive Trees in Coastal Areas•    Mild winters of coastal areas are ideal for olive trees. They can spend the winter    outside without a problem.•    They are resistant to salty air and wind, but some damage may still occur.•    Windbreaks or sheltered spots are essential for protection from strong winds. We hope that you’ll find this simple guide for maintaining olive trees helpful. If you are thinking about buying olive trees for your garden, visit us at Arundel Arboretum in West Sussex or browse our online store. And if you need any advice, our team is always happy to help you choose your perfect tree. FAQ How long do olive trees live?The average life span of an olive tree is around 500 years, but they can live much longer. In the Mediterranean area, some are more than 2000 old and the oldest known olive tree is estimated to be 4000 years old. In the UK, they won’t reach these extreme ages but can live for many decades with proper care. Can I grow an olive tree indoors?Olive trees need at least six hours of direct sunlight every day which is very hard to achieve indoors. If you decide to keep it inside, place it by the south-facing window and make sure the room has good airflow. Can olive trees survive UK winters?Yes, olive trees can survive UK winters, especially in milder southern regions. Mature trees tolerate temperatures down to -10°C. However, they usually have to be protected from frost. Young and potted trees are more vulnerable and it’s best to take them indoors during low temperatures. Do I need more than one olive tree for it to produce fruit? Most olive trees are self-fertile, but having more than one can increase yields, especially if you’re growing them in the UK. Why is my olive tree not fruiting in the UK?Here are a few common reasons:•    The tree is still too young•    It doesn’t get enough sunlight or warmth•    Flowering branches were accidentally pruned•    Colder UK areas may not be adequate for fruiting How long does it take for an olive tree to bear fruit?If the conditions are right, olive trees usually bear fruit after 3 to 5 years. In the UK, it may take a bit longer because of the climate. Do olive trees have deep roots?Olive trees usually have shallow and wide-spreading roots. They are not invasive, therefore, generally safe to plant near walls or patios. Can you eat olives off the tree?No, because they are very bitter. How quickly do olive trees grow?Olive trees are slow to moderate growers. In the UK, they typically grow 10 to 30 cm per year. Container trees grow even slower.      

Ever feel like choosing the right tree for your garden is way more complicated than it should be? With all the different options and confusing terms, it’s like wandering through the maze without a map. We get it and we are here to help! This article will guide you through different types of trees with clear, easy-to-understand explanations of key terms to make your tree selection as simple as possible. What Is a Grafted Tree? Let’s start with the term “grafted,” as it's commonly seen in tree specifications. Grafting is a clever way to grow trees that are both beautiful and tough, blending the best traits of two plants into one tree! A grafted tree is created by joining the top part of one tree (scion) with the root system of another tree (rootstock). The top part may be chosen for its fruit, flowers, or lush foliage. The rootstock is often selected for its strength, pest and disease resistance, or ability to adapt to certain soils. Top-Grafted Trees Top-grafted trees are created by attaching the top part of one plant to the trunk of another plant at a higher point on the trunk. With this technique, we can create unique and interesting tree shapes, like a ball-shaped canopy on a tall trunk. For example, a top-grafted weeping willow develops a tall, elegant look, while a top-grafted rose forms a small "tree" covered in blooms. Bottom-Grafted Trees Bottom-grafted trees are made by attaching the top of one plant to the root system of another plant close to the ground. This technique combines the qualities of the top part with the toughness and resilience of a certain rootstock. The result is a stronger and healthier tree. Great examples of bottom-grafted trees are fruit trees and some cherry blossoms. A Guide to Different Tree Types Let’s see what each tree type means and how their shapes and structures differ.Understanding these will help you choose the perfect fit for your garden. Standard Tree (Full-Standard, Std) Single, tall, straight trunk 1.8m+ height Broad, spreading canopy Description: Standard Tree is usually a natural tree that develops on its own rootstock without any grafting. Nurseries sometimes label certain grafted trees as "standard" if they have a similar form. Standard trees have a single straight trunk, clear of branches up to at least 1,8m, with a broad, spreading canopy above. They typically reach a mature height of 6m and more. Suggested Uses: Standard trees are ideal for a focal point in landscapes, especially in large gardens, and excellent choice for parks and streets. They offer shade, privacy, and a habitat for wildlife. Care Tips: Standard trees need regular pruning and can benefit from staking when young until they develop a sturdy structure. Half-Standard Tree (HS,1/2 Standard, 1/2 Std) Single, short, clear trunk 1.2-1.5m in height Rounded, compact canopy Ideal for small spaces Description: Half-standard tree has a clear, single trunk that reaches about 1.2-1.5 metres in height and a compact, rounded canopy. It has an ornamental “lollipop" look which is very popular in landscaping. Half-standard trees are not always grafted. That depends on the tree variety and the desired characteristics. Non-Grafted Half-Standard Trees grow naturally into this form without grafting, but are usually pruned to maintain the lollipop shape. Grafted Half-Standard Trees are grafted to control the size and ensure uniform growth and consistent canopy shape. They are more reliable for decorative purposes. Suggested Uses: Half-standard trees are perfect for formal landscaping and great for garden borders, walkways, and focal points in small gardens. They are very well suited for growing in containers. Care Tips: Half-standard trees require regular pruning to maintain their distinctive lollipop form. If grown in containers, they need constant watering and fertilization. Quarter-Standard Tree (QS, 1/4 Standard, 1/4 Std) Short trunk 0.5-1m in height Dense, rounded canopy Ideal for pots and containers Description: A quarter-standard tree is very similar to a half-standard tree but its trunk is shorter, below 1.2m in height, typically between 0.5-1m. Its canopy is dense and rounded, creating a tidy, lollipop-like shape. Suggested Uses: Due to their small size and structured appearance, quarter-standard trees are very popular in ornamental landscaping. They are perfect for growing in pots and containers, and therefore, ideal for small places like patios and balconies. Care Tips: Due to their limited space in containers, quarter-standard trees require regular watering and fertilization. They also need to be sheltered from strong winds. Feathered Tree (Fth) Single main stem Branches from base up Dense, full foliage Natural, bushy appearance Description: A feathered tree has a single main stem and evenly spaced lateral branches, usually from the ground up. The lowest branches are positioned less than 25cm from the ground. It has a natural, bushy, and feathery look. The average height varies depending on the species. They typically grow from 3 to 6 meters, but some species can grow up to 10m and more. Suggested Uses: Feathered trees are ideal for informal and woodland-style landscapes, natural-looking hedges, and privacy screens. They are valuable for attracting and sheltering wildlife. Care Tips: Feathered trees require minimal pruning and are an excellent choice for lush, naturalistic landscapes. They are, generally, resilient and adaptable to various soil types and environments. Multi-Stemmed Tree (MS) Multiple stems from the base Bushy, spreading crown Unique, architectural look Description: A multi-stemmed tree has multiple stems emerging from a single root or just above the ground. Its open structure, along with a bushy and spreading crown, creates a visually striking silhouette and provides a natural, architectural look. The average height of multi-stemmed trees can vary based on the species, but generally range between 3 to 6 metres. Suggested Uses: A multi-stemmed tree with its unique shape is ideal as a focal point in landscape design. It’s great for natural privacy screens, adding depth to borders, or softening landscape edges. Care Tips: Multi-stemmed trees need room to spread as their crowns take up more horizontal space than single-stemmed trees. They also appreciate slightly sheltered locations. Pleached Tree (Espalier) Single, tall, clear stem Structured horizontal branches Needs support framework Description: A pleached tree has a single clear stem with a crown of branches trained to grow horizontally along a supporting frame. The stem is usually around 1.8-2m long while the crown is shaped in different styles – panel, box, umbrella, and more. Pleached trees bear their foliage, flowers, and fruit as usual, but their growth is restricted. Suggested Uses: Pleached trees are usually used to create an aerial screen above a fence or a wall. When planted in a row, they resemble a hedge on stilts. They are ideal for adding height to garden borders. Care Tips: Pleached trees require regular pruning and training to maintain their shape and sturdy frame to support their branches. Girth and Litres You may have seen terms like 'girth' and 'litres' in tree specifications which can be quite confusing. What exactly is “girth” and why are trees measured in litres? Let’s clear it up! What is Girth? Girth is the circumference of the stem measured 1 metre from the ground. Girth is a more reliable measure of a tree’s maturity than height. For example, a tree might be 2m tall but thin and only a year old, while another tree could be 2m tall, but with a thick trunk and around 10 years old. What Does Girth Tell Us? Most trees grow around 2cm in girth every year. Therefore, a tree with 8-10cm girth is most probably 4-5 years old. Generally, the larger the girth, the older and more established the tree. Why are Trees Measured in Litres? When you see “litres” in tree specifications, it tells you the size of the pot the tree is growing in. A higher litre number means a larger pot, and usually a bigger and more mature tree. In Conclusion We hope this guide will help you make informed and confident choices when selecting trees for your garden. With the right knowledge, you can create your piece of paradise and enjoy it for years to come. If you need any further assistance, do not hesitate to reach out. Our team is here to help you and support you every step of the way.