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Wisteria is one of the most loved flowering climbers in UK gardens. In spring, there is nothing quite like its cascading, fragrant blooms spilling over pergolas, doorways, or stone walls. They bring a timeless sense of nostalgia and romance to old houses, historic estates, and traditional English cottages. Once established, Wisteria grows quickly and doesn’t need much care. It’s impressively long-lived, and will reward you with beautiful blooms year after year. No wonder wisteria is such a popular choice among our customers at Arundel Arboretum. We offer a wide selection of wisteria varieties, from classic purple blooms to softer shades of white and pink. If you’re thinking about buying wisteria and adding it to your garden, this guide will help you choose the right variety. You’ll also find plenty of helpful tips on how to grow and care for it successfully. Choosing the Best Wisteria for UK Gardens Which wisteria is right for you: •    The most fragrant wisteria? Try Brachybotrys•    Wisteria with longest cascades? Choose Macrobotrys.•    Fast-growing wisteria? Go with Sinensis•    Best wisteria for small gardens & patios? Wisteria clear stem or wisteria umbrella-trained form.•    Best wisteria for pergolas and walls? Sinensis or Floribunda trained on cane or arches. Choosing the right wisteria can feel a bit overwhelming. To help you decide, here are the best wisteria varieties we offer at Arundel Arboretum and what makes each of them special. Wisteria brachybotrys – Silky Wisteria - Fragrant, Compact and Beautiful. This wisteria has large velvety leaves, sweet scent, and slightly less vigorous growth compared to other varieties. It is perfect for smaller gardens and gardeners that are enchanted by its sweet fragrance. In our arboretum, we offer: Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Iko yama Fuji’ A compact, beautifully scented wisteria with plenty of soft lilac flowers that won’t overwhelm smaller spaces. Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Showa-beni’ A vigorous climber with pale pink blooms, yellow centres and strong, pleasant fragrance that fills the garden in late spring. Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Golden King’ Notable for its golden green foliage that turns bright yellow in autumn and pale violet to lavender-blue flowers with sweet and pleasant fragrance. Wisteria sinensis – Chinese Wisteria – Vigorous, Free-Flowering and Reliable Chinese wisteria is known for its anticlockwise-twining stems, early and abundant flowering, often before the leaves appear, and beautiful sweet fragrance. It is very vigorous and ideal for large pergolas, walls, and archways. We offer: Wisteria sinensis ‘Prolific' As the name suggests, this variety delivers masses of fragrant, purple-violet flowers. Ideal for everything from sunny walls to centrepiece containers. It flowers at a younger age compared to other varieties.   Wisteria sinensis ‘Alba’ Elegant variety with pure white, fragrant flowers that open before the leaves appear. A great choice if you’re after a softer, more classic look that blends beautifully with both cottage-style and more minimalistic gardens. Wisteria sinensis ‘Shiro Kapitan Fuji’ Known for masses of highly fragrant, snow-white flowers, golden yellow leaves in autumn, and vigorous growth. Perfect for gardeners who want a strong climber that offers year-round interest, not just spring blooms. Wisteria floribunda – Japanese Wisteria Japanese wisteria is famous for its breath-taking racemes, sometimes reaching up to a metre. Flowers open gradually from top to bottom, and create a stunning waterfall effect from late spring to early summer. The most popular is: Wisteria floribunda ‘Macrobotrys’ One of the longest-flowering wisterias, with violet-purple blooms and yellow centres on racemes that can exceed 1 metre in ideal conditions. Its graceful, trailing habit is perfect for large pergolas or feature walls. Wisteria Forms Available at Arundel Arboretum We offer our wisteria varieties in a range of beautifully trained shapes to suit all kinds of gardens. Whether you’ve got a spacious garden or a small patio, there’s a shape that will be perfect for you. •    Cane-trained climbers – Great for covering fences, walls, or pergolas. Easy to train and perfect for varieties like Prolific, Golden King, and Macrobotrys.•    Clear stem / Standard forms – Neat and upright, ideal for pots, patios, or adding structure to borders. Popular options include Showa-beni and Alba.•    Umbrella / Roof espalier – Trained for a dramatic, cascading effect. Perfect over seating areas or as a standout feature on the patio. Try Prolific or Shiro Kapitan Fuji.•    Arch or frame-trained – Ready-made focal points for entrances or walkways, ideal for instant impact. Look out for our Sinensis Arch Mix. Where to Plant Wisteria in the UK for Best Flowering Results Wisteria is a tough plant and can easily survive UK winters, making it suitable for all UK regions. It tolerates temperatures as low as -15°C to -20°C. However, young plants may need a bit of protection during their first winter, particularly in exposed gardens. While the plant itself is hardy, flower buds can be damaged by late spring frosts, especially in colder areas. Wisteria thrives in sunny places with at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. South or west-facing walls are ideal for abundant blooms. Try to avoid overly exposed and windy spots because they can damage young shoots.  It grows best in moist but well-drained soil that’s neutral to slightly acidic or alkaline. It doesn’t like waterlogged conditions. It prefers loamy and sandy soil rich with organic matter. Still, avoid soil that is too fertile as it can lead to lots of leafy growth but fewer flowers. How to Train Wisteria on a Pergola or a Wall With the right support and a bit of guidance, wisteria can become one of the most beautiful features in your garden. Here are some simple tips to help you train it properly, whether on pergola or a wall. Training Wisteria on a Wall 1.    Start by fixing strong horizontal wires to the wall. Make them 30 cm apart.2.    Use vine eyes to leave a bit of space between a wall and the wires. This is important for the air to circulate.3.    Plant wisteria about 30-45 cm away from the wall.4.    As it grows, choose a few strong shoots and tie them to the wires. Spread them to create a fan shape.5.    Prune to keep it tidy and encourage lots of flowers. Training Wisteria on a Pergola 1.    Make sure the pergola is strong enough as wisteria can get quite heavy over time.2.    Choose the right variety. Japanese wisteria is ideal for pergolas because of its long trailing flowers.3.    Plant it 30-45 cm from the base of the post.4.    Guide the main stems up the pergola posts and tie them in as they grow.5.    When they reach the top, train the side shoots along the crossbeams to create a canopy.6.    Trim down any extra shoots to give flowers space to hang. Twisting Direction and Why It Matters Different types of wisteria twist in different directions. The best practice is to let them follow their natural growth.•    Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria) twines anticlockwise.•    Wisteria floribunda (Japanese) and Wisteria brachybotrys twine clockwise.If you try to force stems in the opposite direction, it can stress the plant and slow its growth. Knowing which way your wisteria naturally grows, makes training so much easier. When to Prune Wisteria in the UK Wisteria needs pruning twice a year to keep it the neat and tidy and make sure it gives a lot of flowers. Its reputation of being difficult to prune isn’t really deserved. Once you understand the basic routine, it becomes an easy job. The key is being consistent. The young wisteria should not be pruned until it covers the wall or pergola. In the UK, the first prune is best done in summer, in July or August. That’s when you cut back the long, whippy shoots to just above five or six leaves. The second prune should be in winter, in January or February, when you trim those same shoots even further, down to two or three buds. This winter prune will help wisteria produce a lot of flowers when spring arrives. How to Feed Wisteria Plants & General Care To keep your wisteria healthy and help it put on a spectacular display, feeding and watering properly is essential.•    Feeding: Proper feeding boosts flower production. The best fertiliser for wisteria is a balanced slow-release fertiliser with an NPK of around 10-20-10. Try fertilisers like Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone. Apply it in spring at the recommended rate. If the soil is sandy, you can add a bit of sulphate of potash for extra support. For wisteria grown in containers, use liquid tomato fertiliser, Phostrogen, Miracle-Gro or a similar flowering plant food. Apply it every couple of weeks during the growing season. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers, which encourage the leaf growth instead of flowers.•    Watering: Water newly planted wisteria regularly to help it establish strong roots. Once established, wisteria is tolerant to drought, but it needs regular watering during hot weather. Do not overwater as it hates waterlogged conditions. If you are growing wisteria in containers, water when the top of the soil feels dry.•    Mulching: A layer of organic mulch around the base helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Apply around 5 cm and keep it away from the stem to prevent the rot. Common Wisteria Issues and How to Fix Them Even though wisteria is generally easy to grow, a few common issues can pop up along the way, but most are simple to fix with the right approach. 1.    Not Enough FlowersThis is the most common problem with wisteria plants. It’s usually caused by too much nitrogen in soil, poor pruning, or planting an inadequate plant.How to Fix: Avoid fertilisers high in nitrogen, prune twice a year and make sure you bought a plant that is grafted or at the age of flowering. 2.    Overgrowth and TanglesWisteria is a vigorous grower and it can become a tangled mess if you let it.How to Fix: Be consistent with pruning routine – prune twice a year, in summer and winter. 3.    Leaves Turning YellowIt can be poor drainage and lack of nutrients.How to Fix: Make sure the soil is not soggy and drains well. Apply balanced fertiliser in spring. 4.    Parts of the Plant Dying BackIt might be root rot, honey fungus, damage from wind, or old age.How to Fix: Check for signs of fungal issues. Make sure the soil is not waterlogged. Cut back any dead wood or affected stems. 5.    Pests and DiseasesWisteria is generally resistant to pests, but sometimes aphids or scale insects can become a problem.How to Fix: Wash them off with water or spray with a mild insecticidal spray if needed. 6.    Collapsing or Poor SupportAs it gets older, wisteria can get quite heavy. If the structure is not strong enough, the plant may start to sag or collapse.How to Fix: Use strong, permanent supports. Regularly check and replace ties as the plant grows. Conclusion As you can see, Wisteria is a low-maintenance plant that brings beauty, fragrance, and a touch of romance to your garden. With so many varieties to choose from, there’s something to suit every space. If you’re ready to add one to your garden, visit us at Arundel Arboretum, in Chichester, West Sussex, or explore our online store to find the perfect wisteria variety. If you need any help, our friendly team is always ready to offer advice or assist you in finding your perfect wisteria.      

There is something truly special about Japanese gardens. It’s no wonder gardeners around the world are fascinated by their serene elegance and timeless beauty. We’re often asked if it’s possible to create a Japanese garden here in the UK - and the good news is, absolutely yes! With the right plants, a bit of planning, and understanding of the key design principles, you can craft your own peaceful sanctuary inspired by Japanese gardens. To help you get started, we’ve put together this simple and practical guide, specially tailored for UK gardeners. For more personalized advice, come and visit us at Arundel Arboretum in Chichester, West Sussex. Our friendly team will help you choose from our wide selection of high-quality Japanese garden trees and shrubs and provide expert support to bring your Japanese-style garden to life. The Philosophy Behind Japanese Gardens  Japanese gardens are relaxing, contemplative spaces that celebrate the soothing beauty of nature. They aren’t meant to impress or show-off, but to build harmony between people and the natural world. They’re designed to calm the mind, slow things down, and give you space to breathe and reflect.  Here are five key principles at the heart of Japanese garden philosophy: Wabi-Sabi (Beauty in Imperfection) Japanese gardens embrace the beauty of nature just as it is, including its imperfections. A gnarled tree trunk, twisted branches, moss-covered stones, or fallen leaves all reflect an appreciation for things that are humble, timeworn, and real. They celebrate the beauty that comes with age and passing of time. Shakkei (Borrowed Scenery) Shakkei is the art of borrowing scenery - blending the surrounding landscape into your garden design. It could be the sky, a neighbour’s tree, a stone wall, a fence, or hills in the distance. Instead of hiding these, Japanese gardeners frame them and, suddenly, what’s outside becomes a natural part of the garden. It inspires the feeling of unity and connection with the world beyond your own space. Ma (Space and Stillness)  In Japanese design, what you leave empty is just as important as what you fill. This idea is known as Ma – the mindful use of empty space. Open, untouched areas create visual breathing room and give the eye and the mind a place to rest. These pauses bring a deep sense of peace and serenity to the garden. Fukinsei (Asymmetry and Natural Flow) Nature doesn’t grow in perfect lines and Japanese gardens honour that. Instead of symmetry, they embrace irregular shapes, uneven placement, and odd numbers. It’s all about creating natural rhythm that feels organic, balanced, and live. Kanso (Symbolism and Simplicity) Kanso is the beauty of simplicity - the idea that less can say more.  In Japanese garden, every element has meaning. Water represents life, stones provide stability, bridges symbolize transition. That’s why features like small water basins, raked gravel, lanterns, and rocks aren’t just decoration - they are placed with purpose, even if everything looks effortless. Key Elements of a Japanese Garden Every element in a Japanese garden is carefully chosen - not just for how it looks, but for how it makes you feel. They are there to evoke emotions or tell a story. The goal isn’t to fill every corner, but to create a mood that introduces stillness, reflection and a deeper connection to nature. Here are some of the most common elements you’ll find in Japanese gardens with a short explanation of their meaning and symbolism. •    Water – A symbol of life, renewal, and the ever-changing flow of time. It is added to Japanese gardens in the form of still ponds, streams, or stone basins.•    Rocks & Stones – They represent strength and stability. Each stone is placed with intention and grounds the space, provides structure, and adds a sense of timelessness. Rocks and stones often mimic mountains, islands or shorelines.•    Gravel & Sand – In dry landscapes, like Zen gardens, they symbolize water. They also invite meditation and invoke inner peace. Raking them becomes mindful, calming ritual.•    Paths & Stepping Stones – Rarely straight; they curve and meander to slow you down and encourage mindfulness. They guide you gently through the garden revealing its beauty gradually.•    Bridges – Bridges are symbols of transitions, physical and spiritual - from one phase of life to another or from the everyday world into a more spiritual, inner space. They are also places where you can stop and appreciate the view.•    Lanterns – Symbols of wisdom and clarity. They’re carefully placed throughout the garden to cast gentle light on paths, water features, and focal points, adding a nice glow after dark. •    Enclosures – Fences, walls, and hedges evoke a feeling of seclusion and intimacy, turning the garden into a private world of quiet reflection. They also frame distant views bringing the outside landscape into the garden’s design. •    Trees & Shrubs – Chosen for their shape, colour, texture, and seasonal changes, plants play a central role in setting the mood of the garden. Each plant is planted with the goal to add harmony, create balance, or reflect the rhythms of nature. Plants for Traditional Japanese Gardens UK Choosing the right plants is the key to achieving the authentic look and feel of your Japanese garden. Many traditional species can adapt very well to the UK climate. Here are some trees and shrubs that we recommend and are all available in Arundel Arboretum: Best Japanese Garden Trees for UK Climate Acer Palmatum (Japanese Maple) •    Main Features: Delicate leaves and stunning seasonal colour changes One of the most iconic trees in Japanese garden. •    What It Needs: Partial shade, sheltered from wind, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.•    Best for: Providing elegance and fiery autumn colours to shaded garden areas. Excellent as a focal point. •    Gardener’s Advice: Avoid planting in places with full sun to avoid the leaves scorching. Pinus parviflora “Negishi” (Japanese White Pine) •    Main Features: Elegant and slow-growing, with dense, compact form, and soft, slivery-blue needles.•    What It Needs: Full sun, free-draining soil, neutral to slightly acidic, shelter from hard winter winds.•    Best for: Beautiful when contrasted against darker evergreens, mossy ground, or gravels.•    Gardener’s Advice: Avoid waterlogged soil. Prune lightly to maintain shape. Pinus parviflora “Ara Kava” (Japanese White Pine “Ara Kava”) •    Main Features: Rough, twisted bark, ancient looking even when the tree is young. Soft, blue-green needles add nice texture.•    What It Needs: Full sun, free-draining, slightly acidic soil, and sheltered location.•    Best for: Great against raked gravel, near stone lanterns, or dry garden features.•    Gardener’s Advice: Give it space to develop in its natural form.  Prunus serrulata (Japanese Cherry) •    Main Features: Breath-taking spring blossoms, white to deep pink.•    What It Needs: Full sun and moist, but well-drained soil.•    Best for: Beautiful as a centrepiece tree or planted along paths.•    Gardener’s Advice: Best to choose cultivars like “Kazan” or “Shirotae”. Though native to Japan, the following trees are not traditional choice for Japanese-style gardens, but present a good stylistic match, especially for smaller spaces. Cornus kousa (Kousa Dogwood) •    Main Features: Unique shape, star-like bracts in early spring, and red-purple foliage in autumn.•    What It Needs: Full sun to part shade, neutral to acidic, well-drained soil. Avoid chalky and dry soils.•    Best for: Adding elegance and structure to shadier spots. Great for borders or as an understory tree. •    Gardener’s Advice: It may take time to establish. Excellent with acers and ferns. Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia) •    Main Features: Pure white, star-shaped flowers in early spring.•    What It Needs: Full sun to part shade, moist, but well-drained, neutral to acidic. Avoid exposed, windy sites.•    Best for: Ideal near paths or ponds. Adds spring interest and soft structure to the garden.•    Gardener’s Advice: Protect from late frosts which can damage the flower buds. Best Japanese Garden Shrubs for UK Gardens Camellia japonica •    Main Features: Glossy evergreen foliage and rose-like blossoms from late winter to spring.•    What It Needs: Acidic, moist but well-drained soil, partial shade and protection from cold winds and morning sun.•    Best for: Adding year-round structure and early colour to shaded Japanese gardens.•    Gardener’s Advice: Avoid chalky or alkaline soils. Use rainwater to maintain the soil’s natural acidity. Azaleas (Rhododendron spp., especiall R. kaempferi and R. obtusum) •    Main Features: Compact shrubs with neat and tidy forms and vibrant blooms in spring.•    What It Needs: Acidic, moist, but well-drained soil and partial shade.•    Best for: Planting under trees or as low borders.•    Gardener’s Advice: Avoid direct sun and mulch to maintain soil health. Bamboo (Phyllostachys or Fargesia spp.) •    Main Features: Elegant vertical stems and shimmering leaves that add movement, sound, and height to the garden.•    What It Needs: Moist, well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade.•    Best for: Screening, backdrop planting, or adding texture and rhythm to Zen gardens.•    Gardener’s Advice: Phyllostachys needs root barriers to prevent excessive spread. Prune old canes to maintain tidy growth. Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica) •    Main Features: Airy, colourful foliage that changes with seasons.•    What It Needs: Full sun to partial shade, well-drained soil. •    Best for: Borders and soft vertical accents in Japanese-style beds. Combine with darker evergreens.•    Gardener’s Advice: Not a true bamboo. Lightly prune to shape in early spring. Sweet Box (Sarcococca) •    Main Features: Evergreen glossy leaves and fragrant white flowers in winter.•    What It Needs: Shade to part shade, moist, well-drained soil, sheltered positions. Low-maintenance and tough.•    Best for: Shaded corners, entryways, and paths. Great for under-planting or as a companion to acers, camellias, and ferns.•    Gardener’s Advice: Cut back lightly after flowering. Skimmia japonica •    Main Features: Evergreen foliage, fragrant spring flowers, bright red berries. •    What It Needs: Part to full shade, neutral to acidic soil.•    Best for: Shady areas, containers. Great as a companion to acers, camellias, and ferns.•    Gardener’s Advice: Choose self-fertile varieties for berries. Avoid waterlogging. The Importance of Garden Position and Orientation Before you begin designing your Japanese garden, it is very important to understand the orientation and position of your space. Sunlight, shade, and wind all have a big impact on the type of garden you can make and the plants you can plant. South-Facing Gardens South-facing gardens are sunny most of the day and tend to be warmer and dryer than other spots. They’re perfect for rock features, gravel areas, and sun-loving plants. Provide dappled shade for more sensitive plants with tall shrubs or bamboo. South-facing areas are ideal for open and airy designs. East-Facing Gardens These gardens receive gentle morning sun and cooler afternoons. They offer a balance of light and moisture ideal for plants that can’t tolerate hot afternoon sun, like Japanese maples. East-facing spaces are ideal for creating soothing, misty atmosphere, often enhanced with stepping stones, water features, and shade-loving ground covers. West-Facing Gardens West-facing gardens can be quite warm but not as intense as south-facing gardens. They’re ideal for plants that need several hours of direct sun but can’t handle too much heat, like rhododendrons and camellias. This orientation is great for strolling gardens where you can wander along curved paths and enjoy the golden afternoon light filtering through layered planting.  North-Facing Gardens Cool and shaded for the most of the day, these gardens are perfect for moisture-loving and shade-tolerant plants, like moss, ferns, and some evergreens. North-facing areas are ideal for creating quiet, contemplative corners. Reflective elements like white gravel, pale stones, or water can brighten very shady spots and add contrast. Care and Maintenance Tips A Japanese-style garden may look effortless but needs a lot of thoughtful care. Here are some maintenance tips to help you keep your garden healthy and beautiful: •    Choose the right plants for the right spot. Make sure sun-loving plants like cherries get full sunlight and camellias and maples partial shade.•    Keep the soil constantly moist and well-drained. Mulch with bark or pine needles.•    Feed acid-loving plants, like camellias, azaleas and maples, in early spring.•    Use rainwater where possible to maintain ideal soil pH for sensitive plants.•    Remove dead, crossing, and congested branches in trees but avoid over-pruning. In Japanese gardens the goal is to guide nature not to control it.•    Trim evergreen shrubs to encourage healthy growth.•    Regularly remove fallen leaves from gravel areas and water features to keep them clean. •    Top up gravel and stones as needed to keep it good-looking and tidy. By following these simple routines, you’ll maintain the beauty of your Japanese garden. Thoughtful maintenance is just as important as the design itself. Conclusion Creating a Japanese-style garden is deeply rewarding. With a little knowledge and patience, you too can transform your outdoor space into a beautiful Japanese garden. Whether you’re just starting or want to refine your existing garden, we’re here to help. At Arundel Arboretum you can buy Japanese trees, shrubs, and garden plants perfectly suited for the UK climate. Visit us at Chichester, in West Sussex or explore our online store and find everything you need to grow your perfect Japanese garden.                      

Dreaming about a beautiful coastal garden but struggling with salty winds and poor soil? Growing a garden in a seaside environment is nothing like planting in a sheltered inland space. The very things that make coastal living so desirable and beautiful – the fresh sea air, coastal breezes, and sunny shores – can be challenging for many plants. But with some expert guidance and right choices, your coastal garden can become a lush paradise. In this guide, you’ll find recommendations for the best trees and shrubs for coastal gardens in the UK and answers to the most common questions about growing a coastal garden. The Challenges of Coastal Gardening Why do some plants struggle to grow in coastal conditions? It’s because of the harsh conditions that make it difficult for them to thrive. The major challenges of coastal areas are: Salt Exposure One of the biggest challenges in a coastal garden is salt exposure from both the soil and the air. While some plants are adapted to it, others struggle to survive. Here is why: Osmotic Stress: High salt concentrations in the soil create osmotic stress which makes it harder for the roots to absorb water. The plant end up dehydrated and wilted. Soil Toxicity: Sodium and chloride build up in the roots and block the uptake of beneficial minerals. This weakens the plant, damages the roots, and scorches the leaves. Salt Build-Up: Airborne salt lands on plants, draws moisture out and causes leaf scorch. The layer of salt also blocks sunlight and affects photosynthesis. Coastal Winds All winds can be tough on plants and cause stress and damage, but coastal winds bring unique challenges that make them even more harmful. Coastal winds are: Stronger & More Consistent: With no natural barriers, open coastal landscapes are fully exposed and winds hit with full force More Damaging: Coastal winds carry tiny salt particles that land on plants, dehydrate them, and burn their leaves. In sandy areas, they carry sand particles that cause abrasion and physical damage. Constantly Changing: Coastal winds frequently change their direction which makes it harder for the plants to adapt and grow in one stable direction. Difficult Soil Types Soil types in coastal areas can vary widely but the most common are sandy and clay soils. They both come with their own challenges: Sandy Soil: Water drains too quickly and plants don’t have enough time to absorb moisture and nutrients (Sandy soils are common in East Anglia, Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, and parts of Scotland)  Clay Soil: Holds too much water which can lead to root rot and lack of oxygen. When dry, it is hard, compact and difficult for roots to grow. (Clay soil is common in Kent, Sussex, and parts of the North West)  Rocky Soil: Shallow, nutrient-poor soil that makes it difficult for plants to establish strong roots. Suitable for deep-rooted species. Often found in cliffside and exposed coastal areas (Scotland, Wales, Cornwall, Devon, and Northern Ireland). Drought & Heavy Rains Summer drought can severely stress the plants, especially in sandy and chalky areas. At the same time, coastal climates often bring heavy winter rains that can lead to waterlogging and soil erosion. This dramatic change between very dry and very wet conditions makes plants with strong and deep roots most suitable for coastal gardens. The Best Trees and Shrubs for Coastal Gardens UK Coastal gardens need resilient trees and shrubs that can flourish despite harsh winds, salt spray, and sandy soils and also add beauty and structure to the landscape. Here is our carefully curated selection of the best coastal plants for UK gardens, designed to help you create a beautiful seaside haven. Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) Why: A tough, wind-resistant evergreen tree that makes an excellent shelter for exposed coastal gardens. It thrives in poor soils and adapts to different moisture levels. Maritime Pine, Monterey Pine, and Corsican Pine are also great choices for coastal regions. Ideal for: Western and northern coastal areas (Wales, Cumbria, Scotland), where high rainfall and acidic soils are common.  Aspen (Populus tremula) Why: A UK-native, highly wind-resistant tree that thrives in wet coastal soils and tolerates salty conditions. Its broad, spreading form makes it ideal for shelterbelts in open coastal landscapes. Some other poplars, such as Lombardy, White, or Grey Poplar are also excellent for coastal areas. Best for: Western and northern coastal regions, where high rainfall and occasional waterlogging occur. Perfect for stabilising damp soils and creating wind protection. Tamarisk (Tamarix ramosissima) Why: An excellent coastal plant that thrives in salty, sandy soils and can handle intense sun and drought. Other Tamarisk species, like Saltcedar (Tamarix ramosissima), French Tamarisk (Tamarix gallica), and evergreen Athel Tree (Tamarix aphylla) are also very adaptable to coastal conditions. Best for: Eastern and south-eastern coasts (Norfolk, Suffolk, Kent), where drier conditions and free-draining soils are common. Common Alder (Alnus glutinosa) Why: An exceptionally tough tree that thrives in wet soils, making it perfect for areas prone to winter flooding. It has moderate drought and salt tolerance, therefore, does not thrive in very salty or dry soils. Grey Alder (Alnus incana) is less tolerant to salt but more adaptable to drought.  Best for: Western and northern coasts, where heavy rainfall and boggy conditions are common. Field Maple (Acer campestre) Why: A UK native, salt-tolerant and moderately wind-resistant tree. Its beautiful and dense foliage makes it a great choice for hedgerows and shelterbelts in coastal gardens. A few other maple species can thrive in coastal areas, too, such as Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) and Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) Best for: All UK coastal regions, particularly those needing a compact, hardy tree for mixed plantings. Elaeagnus x ebbingei (Oleaster) Why: One of the toughest and most widely planted coastal Elaeagnus varieties. It is salt-tolerant, wind-resistant, thrives in poor soils and tolerates drought. A deciduous variety Elaeagnus angustifolia (Russian Olive) is also highly drought and salt. Best for: All UK coastal regions, particularly eastern and southern gardens, where it tolerates drier conditions and provides dense wind protection.tolerant. Griselinia (Griselinia littoralis) Why: Fast-growing, evergreen shrub with glossy leaves, excellent for hedges or windbreaks in exposed coastal locations. It thrives in mild, damp conditions and is resistant to salt spray. Griselinia lucida (Shiny Broadleaf) is moderately salt and wind-tolerant and can be used in sheltered coastal gardens.  Best for: Mild western and southern coastal regions (Cornwall, Devon, Wales), where it will enjoy moderate winters and high rainfall. Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii)  Why: A fast-growing, deciduous shrub known for its fragrant flower spikes that attract butterflies and bees. It is highly adaptable - tolerates wind, salt spray, and a range of soil types, though it prefers well-drained conditions. It is not as salt-tolerant as Griselinia or Elaeagnus, but it can thrive in moderate coastal exposure. Best for: Southern and eastern coastal gardens, where it benefits from drier soils and full sun. Our selections for coastal trees and shrubs offer the perfect balance of beauty and resilience. With the right mix and proper maintenance, you will create a beautiful and resilient landscape that you can enjoy all year round. In addition, we've compiled a FAQ section with answers to common questions to help you further with your coastal gardening journey. If you need personalized advice or are looking for high-quality coastal plants, visit us at Arundel Arboretum or explore our online store. General FAQs What are the best trees for coastal gardens? The best trees for coastal gardens are wind-tolerant, salt-tolerant, drought-resistant trees with a strong root system. The best examples are Pine, Poplar, or Tamarisk. What shrubs grow best in salty air and strong winds? The best shrubs for coastal areas with high winds are Griselinia littoralis, Elaeagnus x ebbingei, and Tamarix ramosissima. Which trees grow fast in coastal areas? The best fast-growing trees for coastal areas are Lombardy Poplar and Monterey Pine, which grow up to 1m per year. These fast-growing windbreak trees are highly wind-resistant, salt-tolerant, and adaptable to poor soils. They are ideal for exposed seaside gardens. What evergreen trees are good for coastal gardens in the UK? The best evergreen trees for coastal gardens UK are Monterey Pine, Scots Pine, and Griselinia. What plants are the best for sandy coastal soil? Trees and shrubs for sandy coastal soils must be salt-tolerant, wind-resistant, drought-hardy, and have deep and strong roots. Elaeagnus x ebbingei is excellent for creating dense hedges in sandy soil, while Tamarisk is a drought-resistant tree that thrives in dry, sandy conditions. What are the best hedging plants for coastal areas? The best hedges for coastal gardens are salt-resistant hedges that can withstand harsh coastal conditions. Top choices are Griselinia littoralis, laeagnus x ebbingei, and Escallonia. What plants make the best windbreak for coastal gardens? The ideal windbreaks plants for coastal gardens are fast-growing, salt-tolerant, and windresistant, and capable to form a dense barrier to protect other plants from strong coastal winds. For example, Lombardy Poplar, Monterey Pine, Alder, and Tamarisk. Plant-Specific FAQs Are pine trees good for coastal gardens? Generally, yes, but not all pines thrive in coastal environments. The best choice for coastal gardens are Scots Pine, Monterey Pine, and Corsican Pine. Is Griselinia good for a coastal hedge? Yes, Griselinia littoralis is an excellent coastal hedge, as it is highly salt-tolerant, windresistant, and fast-growing, making it perfect for dense, evergreen coastal screening. Does Tamarix grow in sandy soil? Yes, Tamarix (Tamarix ramosissima) thrives in sandy soil, as it is highly drought-tolerant and well-adapted to dry, free-draining coastal conditions. Are poplar trees good for windy areas? Yes, poplar trees, especially Lombardy Poplar, are excellent for windy areas and are commonly used for shelterbelts and windbreaks Does Elaeagnus tolerate salt spray? Yes, Elaeagnus × ebbingei is highly tolerant of salt spray, making it an excellent choice for coastal hedging and windbreaks in exposed seaside gardens Growing & Maintenance FAQs  How do I protect plants from salt spray in a coastal garden? Plant windbreaks using salt-tolerant hedging's like Griselinia littoralis, Elaeagnus × ebbingei, or Tamarisk to filter the salty winds before they reach more delicate plants. Apply a thick layer of mulch to prevent salt from accumulating in the soil. Also, rinse leaves with fresh water after storms to prevent salt damage. How do I improve sandy coastal soil for planting trees and shrubs?  To improve sandy coastal soil for trees and shrubs, mix in compost, well-rotted manure, or seaweed to add nutrients and retain moisture. Mulch can reduce water loss, while grit-free topsoil or clay improves structure. Using mycorrhizal fungi supports strong root growth, and choosing drought-tolerant plants ensures success. Do I need to water coastal garden plants regularly? Coastal garden plants generally need less frequent watering, as many are drought-tolerant and adapted to sandy, well-drained soils. However, young plants, newly planted trees, and shrubs will need regular watering until established, especially during dry or windy conditions. How do I plant trees and shrubs in exposed coastal areas? Start by positioning hardy, wind-resistant species like Griselinia, Elaeagnus, or Tamarisk as a natural windbreak along the garden’s windward side to shield more delicate plants. Plant trees in groups rather than alone, as this helps reduce wind pressure and creates a sheltered microclimate. Place salt-sensitive plants closer to buildings, walls, or taller hedges for protection.

Our standard 1.8-metre fences are great for marking boundaries, but do very little when it comes to creating true privacy. This is a common challenge for many homeowners, especially in new-build houses where gardens often feel bare and exposed. Fortunately, there’s a simple, stylish, and natural solution for this problem - screening trees. What Are Screening Trees? Screening trees are specially selected trees planted to create a natural barrier and enhance your garden privacy. They grow taller than a standard fence and can extend the height of your garden screen by 5-8 metres. Along with privacy, screening trees bring aesthetic benefits like lush greenery, refreshing shade, and seasonal beauty. This allows you to enjoy your outdoor space in peace, free from unwanted views. Types of Screening Trees: Pros & Cons You are thinking of improving your garden’s privacy by planting screening trees but don’t know where to start? The first step is to consider the types and sizes of screening trees available. You can typically choose between two types: evergreen and deciduous. Each has its own pros and cons so it’s up to you to decide which type is better for your garden. Let’s take a closer look at both options.   Evergreen Screening Trees PROS: Privacy all year round: Evergreen foliage does not change throughout the year so evergreen trees will provide constant privacy, no matter the season. Less noise: Beside blocking unwanted views, the density of evergreen foliage can also reduce the noise from your neighbours or traffic. Wind protection: Evergreen trees can also serve as a natural shield against harsh winds, making your garden cosy even on windy days. Low maintenance: If you don’t have much time for your garden and need low-maintenance screening trees, evergreens may be a good choice since they require minimal care. CONS: No seasonal change: Evergreen trees stay the same throughout the year so they lack the seasonal variety of deciduous trees. Slower growth: Due to their slower growth, it may take longer to achieve the desired height. Higher risk of pests: Their dense foliage can harbour insects, which makes them more susceptible to pests. More snow damage: They can also be more vulnerable to snow damage, as the weight of snow can break their branches. Tend to be more expensive: Evergreen trees tend to be more expensive, especially mature specimens or specific varieties. Deciduous Screening Trees PROS: Attractive seasonal changes: What makes deciduous trees truly beautiful is their ability to change throughout the seasons. They usually offer lovely spring blossoms, vibrant summer foliage, and attractive autumn colours. Faster growth: Deciduous trees tend to grow faster than evergreens. Therefore, if you need fast-growing screening trees, deciduous may be a better solution. Lower risk of pests: Deciduous trees have fewer pest problems compared to evergreens. Less snow damage: They are also less likely to suffer from snow damage. More affordable: More mature deciduous trees are often cheaper compared to their evergreen counterparts.  CONS: Less privacy in winter: Deciduous trees shed their leaves, leaving your garden more exposed during winter. They are better suited as seasonal privacy trees. Longer wait for full privacy: Deciduous trees also need more time to grow dense enough to provide full privacy. Sometimes bare spots in their foliage may appear. More maintenance: They need regular pruning and clearing of fallen leaves which makes them harder to maintain than evergreens. Higher risk of diseases: Deciduous trees are also more susceptible to certain diseases, especially fungal infections. Vulnerable to late frosts: Late frosts in spring can damage new growth and impact their development and beauty. Choosing the Right Size of Screening Trees for Privacy Screening trees usually come as Full Standard (Std) and Three-Quarter Standard (3/4 Std). Before you choose, it’s important to understand what these terms mean. Different tree standards refer to the height of the clear stem which is followed by the canopy at the top. Full-Standard Screening Trees Height: Full-standard trees have a single straight trunk, clear of branches up to at least 1,8m and a broad, spreading canopy above. Benefits: Perfect for adding height above a standard fence. The canopy creates a natural barrier while the space below remains open and uncluttered. Best use: They are a great choice for larger gardens, standard fences, paths, or driveways. Full-standard trees create a formal and structured look and keep the ground level open and visible. Things to consider: Full standard trees need more vertical space to thrive and slightly more time to establish a dense canopy. Three-Quarter Standard Screening Trees Height: Three-quarter standard trees have a single clear stem or trunk with a neat canopy above. The trunk is usually between 1.5 and 1.8 metres high. The canopy begins at around 3/4 of the tree's overall height making it closer to the ground. It is also more compact and dense than canopy in a standard tree. Benefits: Great for adding privacy at eye level which makes them a good choice for seating areas or patios. The space below the canopy stays clear and airy. Best Use: Perfect for smaller gardens and urban spaces where you want privacy but not overly high trees, or where full-standard trees feel out of proportion. Things to consider: Three-quarter standard trees may not be the best choice for screening in large gardens. They can appear out of proportion or be less effective in creating privacy. Best Evergreen Screening Trees for Garden Privacy Here are our top evergreen trees that offer excellent garden screening solutions. Hoheria Snow White Fast growth, attractive evergreen foliage, and masses of elegant, white flowers blooming in summer make Hoheria Snow White a great choice for screening. This tree prefers sheltered positions and may struggle in windy and exposed areas common in coastal or hilly areas of the UK. Photinia Red Robin Photinia is adaptable, hardy, and easy to grow. It is also very attractive with its glossy dark green leaves and bright red new growth in spring. This splash of colour is rare for evergreen screening trees. Photinia Red Robin is not needy but requires occasional pruning to maintain shape. Although it thrives in most UK climates, young plants should be protected in places with severe winters. Ligustrum ovalifolium (Privet)   If you need thick and compact screening trees that grow fast, Ligustrum ovalifolium is the perfect choice. It has very dense foliage but requires regular trimming. Harsh winters may cause it to lose some leaves and diminish its overall appearance. Ligustrum japonicum (Japanese Privet) This variety of Ligustrum is known for glossier leaves, more compact growth, and the ability to thrive in partial shade. Less cold-hardy than other privets, Ligustrum japonicum can struggle in harsh UK winters. It is better suited for milder regions of the UK. It is also slower growing than other privets. Ilex Nellie R. Stevens (Holly) Dense and hardy, Ilex or Holly can provide a very resilient and thick privacy screen with attractive, bright red winter berries. It thrives in UK gardens but grows slowly, so it may take time to establish as a privacy screen.   Magnolia Grandiflora Evergreen magnolia is well known for stunning, fragrant flowers and large glossy leaves. It combines beauty and function and makes a great screening tree. Magnolia prefers warmer, sheltered parts of the UK. It doesn’t like exposed or frosty conditions. Prunus Lusitanica (Portuguese Laurel) Portuguese Laurel is a dense, hardy, and fast-growing evergreen tree with glossy foliage. It makes an excellent screening tree and grows well in most UK regions. If you don’t want it to grow too wide, it needs regular pruning. Prunus laurocerasus Novita Novita is a robust, adaptable, and fast-growing variety of Cherry Laurel. Its dense foliage creates thick and reliable privacy screens. Since it needs room to thrive, it is ideal for larger spaces. Camellia Japonica Camellia Japonica offers glossy evergreen leaves and beautiful flowers from late winter to spring. It is both practical and decorative. However, it is not as adaptable as some other screening trees. It needs acidic soils and sheltered positions, as well as some extra care to thrive. Camellia Sasanqua This variety of Camellia is compact and elegant. Its fragrant autumn flowers are a beautiful addition to its dense evergreen foliage. Keep in mind that it may struggle in harsh frost and exposed positions. Best Deciduous Screening Trees for Garden Privacy Now, let’s explore the best deciduous trees for privacy that will create perfect natural screening in your garden. Liquidambar Gumball Liquidambar Gumball offers stunning and vibrant autumn foliage in shades of yellow, orange, and red. It is very attractive but grows more slowly than other screening trees. It needs full sun to show its vibrant autumn colours at their best. Liquidambar Worplesdon Liquidambar Worplesdon is known for its spectacular autumn colours and tall upright growth. It is an excellent choice for larger gardens because it requires plenty of space to grow. Not so suitable for small or urban UK gardens. Pyrus calleryana Chanticleer (Ornamental Pear) This is a lovely screening tree, both functional and decorative. It has beautiful spring blossoms and dense summer foliage. It’s a fast grower and can provide garden privacy quickly, but may need regular pruning to prevent it from becoming too tall. Acer Rubrum Redpointe With Acer Rubrum, you will enjoy symmetrical, upright growth habit and vibrant red leaves in autumn. It prefers moist soil and may need additional watering in drier climates. It is ideal for wetter regions of the UK. Carpinus betulus (European Hornbeam) Cold-hardiness and dense foliage, golden-yellow in autumn, make Carpinus betulus an excellent screening tree. It’s highly adaptable and thrives in various soils. It is slower to establish compared to some other trees, but once mature, it will provide a strong and reliable natural garden screen. European Hornbeam is highly adaptable and thrives in most UK climates. Fagus sylvatica (European Beech) European Beech, with its dense foliage that turns coppery-brown in autumn and remains on the tree throughout winter, is an excellent choice for screening. Bear in mind that it can grow quite large if not regularly maintained. Crab Apple Trees Lovely spring blossoms and colourful fruit of the Crab Apple Tree will add real charm to your garden along with privacy. The downside of this screening tree is fruit drop that may require occasional clean-up. They thrive in most UK soils but may need good drainage to avoid root issues. Cherry Blossom Trees In spring, Cherry Blossom tree bursts with breath-taking, white and pink flowers, and in summer, offers dense foliage for seasonal privacy. It blooms best in sunny, sheltered spots, which can be harder to find in windy or exposed UK regions. It may take longer for Crab Apple to provide full privacy because of its moderate growth. Also keep in mind that the bloom period is very short. Screening trees are a fantastic way to add privacy and beauty to your garden. With so many lovely and functional options to choose from, there must be a perfect screening tree for every space. Start exploring your options and take the first step toward transforming your garden into a peaceful retreat!            

If you are planning on choosing bamboo for screening or creating a bit of an oriental feel in your garden, read this - its important.

Your young apple tree is a story waiting to unfold, with you as a guide nurturing its growth and helping it reveal its full potential. Pruning is just a step in this transformative journey, setting the stage for a fruitful “happily ever after”. Here are some helpful tips for mastering the art of pruning, ensuring your apple tree grows strong and bears the perfect fruit. Start Pruning at Planting  Why prune new trees? It's a perfectly reasonable question to ask, but there is a valid reason to start pruning at the time of planting.  When you welcome a young tree into your garden, careful and thoughtful trimming will prepare it for a lifetime of lush growth. While many gardeners, even experienced ones, will say that pruning newly planted trees compensates the root loss or helps the tree survive the planting, the latest research shows that is not quite true.    Pruning cannot compensate for root loss and doesn’t help the tree in overcoming the shock of transplantation. The more leaves you leave on the tree, the happier and healthier roots will be in their new home. As we already know, leaves turn sunlight into energy, and that energy fuels the root growth and helps it get over the shock of moving.  Then, why pruning when planting? Pruning at the time of planting is for structure only. It should be done to establish the best possible structure to help it grow strong and beautiful in the future.  How to Prune a Young Apple Tree? The first pruning should be done immediately after planting. The critical question of when to prune a new apple tree is, therefore, closely connected to its planting period. The best time to plant a new apple tree is from late November to early March, while the tree is still dormant. That’s also the time when you should do the first pruning. Young apple trees are sold in three main forms. Understanding these forms of young apple trees is crucial for effective pruning. These three main forms of a young apple tree available for sale are: Unfeathered Maiden Feathered Maiden Two-Year-Old Tree The main goal of pruning a young apple tree is to form a strong central leader or a trunk by removing branches that are growing upright and fighting for dominance with the leader or are too closely spaced. Also removing branches that are damaged or broken can prevent potential future issues. Unfeathered Maiden (A Single-Stem 1-Year-Old Apple Tree) An unfeathered maiden is a 1-year-old tree with a single stem or trunk and no side shoots. The main goal of pruning 1-year-old apple trees is to: Encourage them to branch out Make them stronger How to Do It: Cut the top of the stem just above the bud Ensure there are 3 or 4 healthy buds below Make the cut about: 75cm from the ground for standard and half-standard trees 60cm from the ground for a tree on a dwarfing M27 rootstock This approach encourages the tree to grow lateral branches. The healthy development of these branches is essential for a strong and productive structure. Be aware that you are not just cutting, but guiding your tree towards fulfilling its full potential. Feathered Maiden (1-Year-Old Apple Tree with Side Shoots) A feathered maiden is a 1-year-old apple tree with several side shoots on the main stem. The key goal of pruning feathered maiden is to: Select well-placed branches Create a balanced, open tree structure Shape the tree for future growth How to Do It:  Examine the tree’s structure Identify the central trunk, which is the main upward branch Remove any shoots that compete with it Choose 3-5 strong, well-spaced, outgrowing branches They should be evenly distributed around the trunk Ideally, angled 45 to 60 degrees from the trunk Cut the top of the main branch (trunk) just above the highest side shoot Shorten the branches you previously selected by half to two-thirds Cut them just above an outward-facing bud Remove any side shoots below them Remove damaged or broken branches By following these steps, your feathered maiden apple tree will be on its way to becoming strong and well-shaped, ready to grow and bear fruit for years to come. 2-Year-Old Apple Tree (Newly Planted or In Its Second Year) Pruning a Newly Planted 2-Year-Old Apple Tree (Pre-Trained by the Grower) If your newly bought apple tree is 2 years old, it is probably partly pre-trained. It has likely already started to form a basic structure, but it can still benefit from formative pruning. Pruning 2-year-old apple trees is similar to pruning feathered maiden trees. The only difference is that with a 2-year-old tree, the main stem or trunk is most probably cut back by the grower but the tree may have sprouted a replacement upright shoot. You need to cut it back just above the highest side shoot. Pruning the Second Year After Maiden (Two Years in Your Garden) Pruning your apple tree in its second year in your garden is very important for its robust, healthy growth and abundant fruit production. The goal is to: Develop a strong and well-structured framework of branches Make the tree capable of bearing the weight of the fruit Pruning should be done late in winter or early in spring, before the new growth emerges. Here is a simple guide on how to prune a young apple tree in winter. Hot to Do It: Examine the tree’s structure Remove competing branches to maintain a single, strong, central leader Choose 8 to 10 side shoots evenly spaced around the trunk To establish the permanent branching structure Remove the branches that are growing vertically, too close, crossing, or rubbing against each other Remove shoots that main branches do not need Shorten the branches by half to two-thirds Cut just above the outward-facing bud Remove suckers (growing from the base of the trunk) and water sprouts (upright shoots on branches) Remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches Keep the centre of the crown open Pruning in the second year is important for strengthening the structure that was established in the first year. Thoughtful shaping of the tree will be highly beneficial for its strength and fruit production. Pruning 3-Year-Old Apple Trees After 3 years, your apple tree is already well structured and pruning is a means of refining its shape and preparing it for fruit production. In this stage, the goal of pruning is to: Shape and refine the tree’s structure Improve air and light circulation throughout the canopy Crucial for the quality and quantity of harvest Encourage the growth of fruiting spurs How to Do It: Cut back the last growth by a quarter Cut the branches that are becoming disproportionately long Keep the side-shoots on the main branches These branches will develop fruiting spurts and bear fruit Remove them only if: They grow into the crown’s centre Become too crowded Rub against each other Remove suckers and water sprouts By the third year, pruning your apple tree is completing the setting of the stage for healthy and abundant fruit production. Pruning Apple Trees for Fruit Production The proper pruning of apple trees is essential for maximizing healthy fruit production. The goal of this kind of pruning is to: Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches Thin canopy to improve airflow and light exposure Maintain a balance between vegetative growth and reproductive growth Prevent the tree from producing too many small, poor-quality fruit Pruning at this stage ensures that the apple tree is getting enough air and sun and preventing its energy from being spent on leaf growth instead of fruit production. It is important to know that apple trees produce fruit on spurs – short, stubby branches. They must not be overcrowded because they need a lot of sun and fresh air. How to Do It: Remove entire branches if the canopy gets too crowded to open it up Remove the branches that compete for nutrients and sunlight Shorten branches by cutting them back to a bud Make sure spurs are not overcrowded After pruning, water the tree and mulch to retain the soil moisture If you set the stage correctly and make sure every fruit gets its share of sun and fresh air, you can happily expect a bountiful and delicious harvest. Thorough care in the first few years will reward you with crisp, tasty apples, making every bit of your effort worthwhile. Pruning Young Apple Tree Aftercare After the pruning is done, there are some things to do to ensure good aftercare and prevent various problems. First of all, make sure the tree receives enough water and mulch it to keep the soil moist. Based on the soil test, fertilize the soil if needed. As for the wound care, it is better to let it heal naturally. Monitor to see any signs of pests or disease on time and react adequately. Protect the tree if it’s in a windy location or too much exposed to the sun. Support the tree with a stake if its structure is significantly altered, especially in windy locations. By following these steps, you will help your tree easily recover from pruning and prepare for successful growth and abundant yield. Be patient and gentle and your young apple tree will thrive and reward you with its beautiful blossoms and tasty fruit for years to come. FAQ What are the most common mistakes when pruning an apple tree? When it comes to pruning a young apple tree, here are some most common mistakes you should avoid: Not pruning every year Pruning without a plan Pruning too early in winter Over-pruning Not thinning out the canopy Should I take off the fruit of a young apple tree? Yes, all the fruit in the first growing year should be removed from the tree, as well as half of the fruit the next year. For the first 2 years, it is best to direct the tree’s energy into growing roots. After that, remove only damaged fruit or thin out if the crops get too heavy for the tree. Too much crop can end with too small fruit of a lower quality. Is my new apple tree dying? New trees often experience transplant shock and struggle to establish their roots. If it doesn’t have enough room for its roots or is not watered properly, it may show signs of dying. Here is how to tell if your newly planted apple tree needs help: Bend a branch If it breaks easily, the tree is dying or is already dead Gently scratch the bark with your fingernail If a layer beneath is moist and green, your tree is alive How do you save a young apple tree? If your newly planted apple tree is experiencing stress, you can try some of these things to help it: Make sure it gets enough water At least 15-20 litres of water per week Add a layer of mulch to keep the soil moist Keep it around 10 to 15 cm away from the trunk Check the pH and nutrient levels of the soil Apple trees prefer a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Prune for structure to improve air circulation and enable more sunlight Remove all damaged, diseased, or dead branches Based on the soil test, apply fertilizer Don’t over-fertilize because the excessive growth can cause other problems

Magnolia trees are easy to maintain and rarely require pruning. When they do, it’s usually to remove dead or damaged branches. So with magnolia in your garden, you can enjoy the exquisite beauty of nature without too much hassle. Is It Necessary to Prune Magnolia Trees? Unlike the trees that require regular pruning to thrive or others that can tolerate severe trimming, magnolia is a low-maintenance plant that generally doesn’t like pruning. So before you reach for the pruning shears, pause and rethink if your magnolia tree really needs this intervention. How to Prune a Mature Magnolia Tree? When pruning a mature magnolia tree, be sure to prune it lightly. Magnolias don’t like excessive pruning and don’t respond well to it. Mature magnolia trees should be pruned only if necessary, to remove dead or diseased branches, or to correct the shape and structure of the tree.If the tree is old, diseased, or stressed, excessive pruning can cause further harm. Neglected trees could require significant corrective pruning which can be challenging and may need professional assistance. When to Prune Magnolia Trees? For magnolia trees, timing is everything. When is the perfect time to prune them? Basically, from late spring to early autumn.Every gardener knows that the ideal pruning time for most trees is late winter or early spring. In this period, trees are still dormant which reduces the stress of pruning and minimizes sap loss. However, magnolia trees are a little bit different. They are resilient beauties with their own set of rules when it comes to pruning. Understanding and accepting these rules will make your magnolia flourish and keep revealing its stunning blooms every year. Why Not Pruning Magnolia in Late Winter? Magnolia’s unique pruning schedule is based on several factors: Blooming Cycles Beautiful, often large, fragrant, tulip-like, magnolia flowers are the main feature of this tree. Their blooming cycle is of utmost importance for choosing the best time to prune. Magnolias generally bloom in early spring before the leaves emerge. If you prune them in late winter or early spring, you risk accidentally cutting off the buds formed in the previous year. You may reduce or even destroy the flowering for that season and deprive yourself of enjoying the beautiful magnolia blossoms. The Best Season for Healing Magnolias may need time to heal from pruning cuts. That’s why it’s crucial to prune them at a time when they can heal quickly.Deciduous magnolias are usually pruned in late summer which allows them to heal before the dormancy period.Evergreen magnolias are usually pruned in late spring during the active growth period which allows the tree to recover quickly and further develop its lush evergreen foliage. Disease Prevention Many fungal and bacterial diseases that attack magnolia trees occur and spread more easily in wet conditions, which are typical for late winter and early spring. By pruning your magnolia in dry periods, from late spring to late summer, you minimize the risk of exposing fresh cuts to pathogens when they are most active. What Are the Signs Your Magnolia May Need Pruning? The main signs that your magnolia tree needs pruning are: Dead or dry branches Branches with signs of disease Damaged branches Suckers (shoots from the base) Water shoots (shoots from branches) Branches that cross over each other Branches that rub against each other Too dense canopy Overgrown canopy How to Prune a Magnolia Tree: A Simple Step-By-Step Guide Keeping your magnolia in top shape is not hard. After all, magnolia is not a needy plant and doesn’t require much care. Follow this simple step-by-step guide to pruning to help your magnolia tree thrive. General rules for keeping your magnolia happy and well-maintained are: Prune in adequate time, when the magnolia finishes its blooming Before pruning, identify dead, damaged, diseased, crossing or rubbing branches Remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches Remove branches that are crossing or rubbing each other Remove suckers and water shoots If a canopy is too dense blocking light and air circulation, thin it out If needed, lightly prune to maintain the natural shape Do not remove more than 15% of the canopy per year Use clean and sharp tools Make clean cuts just above the bud or where branches join Angle the cut to prevent water from collecting After pruning, water the tree and mulch it to maintain moisture How to Prune Deciduous Magnolias The most important thing about pruning a deciduous magnolia tree is timing. The best time to prune is between summer and early autumn after magnolias finish blooming. Make sure you don’t accidentally remove buds for the next year’s bloom. In young deciduous magnolia plants, prune any weak growth or branches that ruin their natural shape. Mature plants often grow vertical shoots, known as water shoots. They should be cut back to the trunk or branch. How to Prune Evergreen Magnolias Evergreen magnolias can tolerate more pruning than deciduous ones, but excessive trimming can be stressful to the plant and affects its flowering. Young evergreen magnolia trees usually do not need pruning. Evergreen magnolias can be pruned for size-control and landscaping purposes which is less common for a deciduous variety. The ideal timing for pruning evergreen magnolias is late spring or early summer when there is no more danger of late frosts. How to Prune Wall-Trained Magnolias Magnolias can be easily grown against the wall or a trellis. To do it properly, it’s important to understand their natural growth habit. This understanding should guide all pruning decisions When pruning a wall-trained magnolia, focus on maintaining the desired shape against the support structure. Cut off stems facing towards the wall and shorten those growing away from the wall to one or two leaves. All the branches should be tied to the wall or trellis and the ones that cannot be easily tied should be pruned. The goal is to keep the plant flat. Use soft ties or garden twines to secure the branches. Be careful not to damage the bark. What Are the Common Pruning Mistakes with Magnolia Trees? To ensure a stunning and robust magnolia tree in your garden, keep away from things that can seriously damage it. Follow these simple tips to avoid the most common mistakes: Prune at the right time of the year Avoid shocking the tree with over-pruning Do not cut healthy growth Know where the buds are to avoid cutting them Maintain the tree’s natural form Never top the tree to reduce the height Prune young magnolias very lightly FAQ Why isn't my magnolia tree flowering? Magnolia trees may fail to flower due to many reasons. Here are some of the common ones: Magnolia flower buds are formed in autumn, preparing for blooming next spring. Pruning in autumn or winter can cut off the flower buds causing the tree not to flower. Some magnolia flower buds are frost-sensitive and may die due to severe cold. Flower buds can also perish because of the insect called thrip. Magnolias like moist, well-drained soils. If the soil around the dries out too much in summer, it may avoid producing flower buds to stay alive. Should I deadhead a magnolia tree? Deadheading or removing spent flowers is a common practice for many flowering plants as it stimulates new blooms. However, magnolia trees do not require deadheading nor it is advised as a regular care. They naturally shed their spent blooms. Should I cut brown leaves off the magnolia? Yes, removing brown leaves from the magnolia tree is highly recommended. By pruning dead foliage, the tree can focus its energy and resources on healthy growth. How often should magnolia be pruned? Magnolia tree requires minimal pruning. It doesn’t have to be pruned every year, but every couple of years, dead, diseased, and damaged branches should be removed to maintain the natural shape.

Caring for a plum tree to achieve optimal fruiting involves several key steps: selecting the right variety, planting, watering, fertilization, pruning, pest and disease management, and proper harvesting. Each of these steps contributes to the health and productivity of the tree. 1. Selecting the Right Variety The first step in successful plum tree care is selecting a variety that suits your climate and soil type. Plum trees can be divided into two main types: European plums, which are more suited to cooler climates, and Japanese plums, which prefer slightly warmer conditions. Research local varieties and consult with a nursery to choose a type that will thrive in your specific environment. 2. Planting Plant plum trees during the dormant season, preferably in late winter or early spring. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Planting in a location that receives at least six hours of sunlight each day is crucial for fruit production. Ensure the root ball is level with the ground surface and water thoroughly after planting. 3. Watering Regular watering is essential, especially during the first few years and in dry periods. Over-watering can lead to root rot, while under-watering can stress the tree and reduce fruiting. A good rule of thumb is to water deeply once a week, adjusting based on rainfall and soil conditions. 4. Fertilization Fertilize your plum tree in early spring before new growth begins. Use a balanced fertilizer or one formulated specifically for fruit trees. Over-fertilization can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit production, so follow the recommended rates. 5. Pruning Prune plum trees annually to maintain their shape, remove dead or diseased wood, and encourage fruit production. Pruning is best done in late winter or early spring. The goal is to create an open canopy that allows light and air to reach all parts of the tree, which helps in reducing disease risk and promoting even ripening of fruit. 6. Pest and Disease Management Regularly inspect your plum tree for signs of pests and diseases. Common issues include aphids, plum curculio, and fungal diseases like black knot. Implement appropriate control measures promptly, which may include the use of insecticides, fungicides, or organic alternatives. 7. Harvesting Harvesting at the right time is crucial for the best quality fruit. Plums are ready to harvest when they come off the tree easily with a slight twist and have full color. Harvesting typically occurs in late summer or early fall, depending on the variety. Conclusion Caring for a plum tree requires attention to detail and an understanding of the tree’s needs throughout the year. By following these steps and monitoring the tree's health regularly, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of delicious plums for many years. Remember, patience and consistent care are key to cultivating a healthy and productive plum tree.  Arundel Arboretum has a very wide selection of Plum Tree available at the nursery and for delivery, check out our stock.

Trimming a cherry fruit tree is an essential part of its maintenance and health. The process, known as pruning, not only influences the tree’s aesthetic appeal but also its fruit production and overall health. Pruning should be done during the dormant season, typically in late winter or early spring, to minimize disease risk and to allow the tree to heal before the growing season begins. 1. Understanding the Tree’s Growth Pattern: Cherry trees grow in two forms: sweet (Prunus avium) and sour (Prunus cerasus). Each has a slightly different growth habit and pruning requirements. Sweet cherry trees, often larger, are typically pruned into a vase shape to allow sunlight and air circulation. Sour cherry trees, more compact, are generally pruned into a central leader system, where a main vertical branch is the focal point. 2. Tools and Safety: Before starting, ensure you have the right tools. Use sharp, clean pruning shears for small branches and a pruning saw for larger limbs. Safety is paramount; wear gloves and safety goggles to protect from sharp branches and debris. 3. Basic Pruning Steps: Remove Dead or Diseased Wood: First, cut away any dead, dying, or diseased branches to prevent the spread of decay and to improve air circulation. Thin Out Overcrowded Areas: Identify areas where branches are overcrowded. Removing some of these will improve light penetration and air flow, essential for healthy fruit development. Cut Back Old Wood: Older wood often produces less fruit. Prune some of this back to promote growth of new fruiting wood. Shape the Tree: Maintain the overall shape of your tree – vase-shaped for sweet cherries and central leader for sour cherries. This step is important for the tree’s structural integrity and aesthetic. 4. Pruning Young vs. Mature Trees: Young cherry trees (1-3 years) should be pruned lightly to establish the desired shape. Mature trees require more aggressive pruning to maintain shape, encourage fruit production, and remove any unproductive wood. 5. Timing and Frequency: Prune cherry trees annually to maintain their health and productivity. The best time to prune is late winter or early spring before the sap starts to flow and the buds swell. 6. Aftercare: After pruning, ensure the tree is well-watered, especially if the weather is dry. Mulching around the base can help retain moisture and provide nutrients. 7. Monitoring and Maintenance: Regularly inspect your cherry tree for signs of disease or pest infestation. Prompt action can prevent most issues from becoming serious. In conclusion, proper pruning is crucial for the health and productivity of cherry trees. By understanding the tree’s growth pattern, using the right tools, and following the basic steps of pruning, you can ensure your cherry tree remains healthy, aesthetically pleasing, and fruitful for many years. Regular maintenance and monitoring will also contribute to the tree's overall wellbeing. At Arundel Arboretum we have a wide selection of fruiting and flowering cherry tree available all year round at the nursery and for delivery. Check out trees available at our online shop  

Planting a deciduous Magnolia tree in the UK requires careful consideration of several factors to ensure successful growth and blooming. These factors include the right time of year for planting, soil conditions, and ongoing care. The ideal time to plant a deciduous Magnolia tree in the UK is during the dormant season, which typically falls between late autumn and early spring. Planting during this period minimizes stress on the tree, as it is not actively growing and can establish roots in the new location before the growing season begins. Late autumn planting is particularly beneficial because the soil is still warm, encouraging root growth. However, if the soil is waterlogged or frozen, it's best to wait until conditions improve.  Its worth mentioning that pot grown or pot established trees can be planted all year round, as long as you provide plenty of water during the dry season. When planting potted tree make sure your hole is twice the size of the pot and backfilled with good quality compost. Soil preparation is crucial for Magnolias. They prefer a neutral to slightly acidic, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Before planting, incorporate plenty of well-rotted garden compost or manure into the planting hole and surrounding area. This will improve soil structure and fertility, providing a good environment for root growth. When selecting a planting site, consider the tree's eventual size and shape. Magnolias need space to grow both above and below ground. Choose a sheltered spot to protect the tree from strong winds, which can damage the branches and flowers. A south or west-facing position is ideal as it ensures adequate sunlight, essential for the tree's growth and flower development. Planting a Magnolia tree involves carefully removing it from its pot or container, placing it in the prepared hole, and ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Fill the hole with soil, gently firming it down without compacting it, and water thoroughly. A layer of mulch around the base of the tree, avoiding direct contact with the trunk, can help retain moisture and suppress weeds. After planting, regular care is necessary, especially in the first few years. This includes watering during dry spells, as young trees are particularly susceptible to drought stress. Annual mulching helps maintain soil moisture and temperature, and adding a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring can support healthy growth. Pruning is generally not required for young Magnolia trees, as they naturally form an attractive shape. However, if necessary, pruning should be done in mid-summer after the tree has flowered. This timing helps reduce the risk of disease and avoids cutting off next year's buds. In conclusion, the best time to plant a deciduous Magnolia tree in the UK is during the dormant season, ideally in late autumn, provided the soil conditions are favorable. Proper site selection, soil preparation, and ongoing care are vital to ensure the health and beauty of the tree. With the right attention and conditions, a Magnolia tree can become a stunning focal point in any UK garden, offering spectacular spring blooms for many years to come. At Arundel Arboretum we have hundreds of magnolia trees of different varieties available all year round at the nursery and for online purchase for delivery. Check out our range of Magnolia trees.

We sell so many screening trees so they make a popular choice for me to talk about in the blog. At present we have the following in stock: Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’, Ligustrums, Quercus ilex and Hoheria. These varieties prove to be the most popular, most likely because they are evergreen and at least one of these trees will be suitable for your ground conditions i.e. chalk or clay soils. A good screening tree that is also becoming a very popular container tree is olive. Because the olive is acclimatised to prolonged dryer conditions it is the ideal tree for not getting stressed if not watered for a month. So if you are away for a few weeks, at least you know it is unlikely to suffer too much. It is always wise to put them in the shade. Olive trees for screening are best to be shaped and this is easily done. I will always take a pair of secateurs to them once a year. Olive trees are also good for a manageable shade tree in a container. When our customers come to us for advice and ask for screening trees, we always try to establish the following information: soil type, whether the plant will be planted in a north-south-east-west facing position, how close to the sea the site is and how wet or dry the ground is. This will allow us to recommend a species that is most likely to thrive in those conditions giving it the best chance of health and growth.

Maintenance of container grown Olive or Bay trees: To stop your tree looking tired or dying, it is wise to remove the tree from the container in November-December on a day when the root system is not frozen to stop thermal frosting of the root system. Cut away ten per cent of the root system from all around the root system. Then, using a mix of 50% good quality potting compost and 50% topsoil, mixed together well, add to the bottom of the container with a slow release fertiliser. Put the tree back into the container and fill around the sides. Doing this every year or every other year, will encourage a stronger, healthier root system. This in turn will help the tree to withstand any fungal attack at the roots, as well as the foliage. Feeding over the roots in a container should happen between March to September. We do sell the ideal fertiliser to use. Pruning the head of the tree into your desired shape can be throughout the year on that year’s growth. If pruning harder into thicker growth we would recommend leaving this until November- December. Thicker wood will bleed during the growing season. This can encourage insects that will feed from the sap. The insect could have been on a diseased tree beforehand and with an open wound, the likelihood of infection is greater. In the winter, the sap cycle is reduced massively and most insects are hibernating. Therefore, in our opinion there is less risk of infection.

Red Robin – Photinia Fraseri Initially I would suggest Photinia fraseri ‘Red Robin’. It is normally grown as a shrub (so if you are looking for information you will find it in books about shrubs). A lot of nurseries, including ourselves, supply them as a clear stem tree (trunk from root to first branch break 150-180cm is classed as a standard). They grow 6m – 7m. It is a tree that can take hard pruning and cutting with a hedge cutter – so as tough as old boots! Can stand heavy chalk soil and exposed windy conditions. I would not use direct onto the sea, but second road back should be fine. Will grow on acidic clay soil but will not stand growing on water-logged ground. The new growth in the spring is a strong vibrant red, slowly turning green then staying green through the winter months. The leaf shed is normally March through to June. This old tired foliage will mostly be replenished. Has clusters of white flowers in the spring (stunning) followed by red to orange berries which the birds love. Portugese Laurel - 'Prunus Lusitanica' As a standard evergreen tree, it has a smaller leaf than most evergreens. The slightly darker green leaf produces cone shaped clusters of white flowers followed by green-red turning to sometimes dark purple to black berries in the autumn. The berries are not poisonous and the birds love them. A slower growing evergreen, the Portugese Laurel keeps a better shape than most and can be shaped to size. I would use it for creating a screen within the outer perimeter of a garden as the smaller foliage can be lost at the end of a garden. I would always recommend a larger leafed tree for screenage on the perimeter of the garden. Very hardy grower on chalk soils. Carolina Cherry Laurel  - 'Prunus Caroliniana' I would say this has a slightly mid to lightish-green leaf, although there are a lot of differing opinions on the true colour! The trees I have dealt with so far are a mid to light colour, not dark leaves. It will survive on poorly drained, compacted soil. It will also stand drought conditions and pollution. Again, this is an inner screenage tree because of the mid to small leaf. It has white flowers followed by black berries. The berries are not poisonous and the birds love them.

As beautiful as trees can be on their own, any garden is improved by the addition of some resident wildlife. Today we’re discussing the best trees for tempting birds into your garden… Any tree planted helps birds by providing berries or fruit to feed off in the autumn and, when in leaf, attracting insects that feed on foliage. These insects then help birds to rear their chicks, providing a food source for the chicks and the birds too. Also important for a nesting site is a thorny tree, as this will add extra protection for nesting birds against squirrels raiding their nests. A few of our favourite trees are: Amelanchier canadensis – a small, deciduous tree with green foliage, turning yellow-red and orange copper tinges in the autumn. It has masses of small white flowers normally in April, which are followed by berries. Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ – a small tree with glossy green foliage, turning such stunning colours in the autumn. Red-orange-yellow. It has white flowers in May followed by large berries ripening late into the autumn. It is good for Fieldfares and Red Wings and is such a tough tree. A heavily thorned tree (common name Cockspur Thorn) it is an ideal nesting site. Malus ‘Evereste’ – is another small tree which has green leaves that turn mainly yellow in the autumn. The white flowers produce good crab apples into the winter. We have spent time observing Fieldfares eating the crab apples when snow is on the ground, with Thrushes and Blackbirds jostling for position! Corylus Avellana (Hazel) – All the way through the spring, summer and autumn the Long Tailed Tits feed off the insect life on the leaves. This small tree turns brilliant yellow in the autumn. Euonymous Europeaus ‘Red Cascade’ – This deciduous tree has green leaves, turning red-orange and yellow in the autumn. The white flowers develop a pink shell with an orange berry that will show itself when ripe. The birds love them.

What a dry summer – the ground is parched. It is most important to maintain the required amount of water. Keep you trees, shrubs etc. moist to dry, this will allow the water to drain through the root system so the feeler roots will chase the water to the water table. Overwatering will not make the trees or shrubs grow faster. All you will do is semi-drown or drown the root system. This will encourage the root system to rot. Everybody’s’ ground is different to how fast or slow it dries out. Therefore, if your trees or shrubs are still wet when you go to water them walk away. Do not be tempted to water. Allow the ground to start to dry before re-watering. When fertilising, fertilise around the root system – 6” the first time, then 12” then 18”. This will help to drawer the feeler roots out to the nutrient. Once a month during the first growing season should be enough. If you concentrate on developing a strong, healthy root system this will help to build strength into the tree or shrub to help them cope with windblown spore fungus that are blown in the wind from surrounding trees and shrubs, possibly miles away. They will attach themselves to the underside of the foliage, so if you do have a spray as a cure, concentrate on mainly the underside. After your trees and shrubs have built up their own immune system, they will be able to cope against a windblown spore fungus. Overwatering and under watering are a major problem.

Trees that are planted too deep – we encounter this problem on a daily basis.  Most people don’t realise that this simple mistake can stop a tree from flowering, stunt the growth of the tree, or even, in extreme cases, cause it to die. So if you have a tree, shrub or climber that has not flowered or grown in the manner that you expected it to then the first step is to get the top of the root system exposed and make sure the trunk of the tree is not rotting. By covering the top of the root system you are effectively suffocating the tree, weakening the whole strength of the immune system and allowing bacterial fungi to penetrate the foliage. At this point, you will have to spray the item with a suitable fungicide concentrate – mainly spraying the underside of the foliage. It is important to focus on the underside of the foliage as this is the area most frequently exposed to spores and other irritants when winds blow through the area. These winds typically expose the underside of foliage, allowing harmful materials to attach themselves. Spraying can stop fungus travelling into the secondary bud shoot and stop the branch from dying. If you wish a nursery to identify the problem for you, always put a sample into a clear, sealed plastic bag. Nurseries will not appreciate an infected branch being waved around!

Arundel Arboretum continues to be transformed into a spectacle of vibrant autumn colours as our deciduous trees continue their journey into their dormant winter months.  We have a superb selection of deciduous trees in stock.  If you are looking to plant a tree with specific autumn interest now is the time to visit Arundel Arboretum.  Our trees are displaying vibrant reds, fiery oranges and buttery yellows.  You will be able to see the trees in all of their autumn glory and decide on the best tree for your garden.  Our knowledgeable team will be able to offer you excellent advice to ensure you purchase the right tree for your conditions. To help get you started on what tree to choose, here are five that are currently looking particularly good: Quercus rubra (Red Oak\American Red Oak) Quercus rubra is also known as the Red Oak or American Red Oak. Quercus rubra is a fast growing, broad-headed large deciduous tree. It has an open, spreading crown with leaves that can grow in excess of 20cm. Its large green leaves turn a ruby-red then brown in the autumn. Quercus rubra produces insignificant green flowers in the spring. It can be planted in full sun or partial shade, in a sheltered or exposed position. Quercus rubra has an eventual height of 12m and a spread of 8m. Betula pendula (Silver Birch) Betula pendula is a native deciduous tree, and can be either a multi-stem or single trunk tree. It has a soft, gentle weeping habit with arching branches. Its diamond-shaped fresh green leaves turn a delicate yellow in the autumn. Betula pendula has a maximum height of between 7-12m, so does require plenty of space to grow. It can tolerate most soils, but does not like coastal or dry positions. Betula pendula has attractive, creamy-white peeling bark, which becomes marked with dark rugged cracks at the base with age. Yellow-brown catkins are produced in the spring. Acer rubrum ‘October Glory’ Acer rubrum ‘October Glory’ is a large deciduous tree, with erect main branches.  Dark green, lobed leaves appear in spring, which turn a fantastic brilliant crimson in the autumn. Crimson flowers appear in spring on its bare branches. This variety of Acer has an eventual height of 12m+.  It can be planted in full sun or partial shade in a sheltered position.  If you have the space and are looking for impressive red in the autumn, then this is a tree worthy of consideration. Acer platanoides ‘Princeton Gold’ Acer platanoides ‘Princeton Gold’ is a medium sized deciduous tree.  It produces clusters of small yellow flowers in the spring. These are followed by bright striking golden yellow leaves in spring and summer.  Later in the year, it will produce seeds. It is a resilient, hardy tree. Its autumn colours are looking particularly impressive now. It can tolerate most soil types and can cope with pollution. Amelanchier canadensis (Shadbush) Amelanchier canadensis is a small deciduous tree, which can also be grown as a large shrub. It produces masses of white flowers in spring. These are followed by green-red fruits, which eventually turn black. This is an excellent tree for birds. The mid-green leaves turn yellow\red\orange in the autumn. Amelanchier canadensis prefers a well-drained soil.

After the hot summer weather we have recently had, the first signs of autumn are starting to appear at our Arundel Arboretum garden centre. Our deciduous trees and shrubs are starting to change colour, and over the next few weeks, our Arundel garden centre will be transformed into a spectacle of riotous colours including fiery reds, flame-coloured oranges and various shades of vibrant and delicate yellows. Some of our trees and shrubs will also be laden with berries – much to our resident birds’ delight! If you are making plans for your garden over the winter months, and are particularly interested in trees and shrubs with autumn interest, a visit to our Arundel garden centre over the next few weeks will be very beneficial. You will be able to see what we have available and see the plants in all their autumn splendour. We have an extensive range of plants with autumn interest now. Some of our Euonymous varieties are showing signs of their autumn colours starting to emerge, and two varieties you may like to consider include:- Euonymous alatus ‘Compactus’ (compact Winged Spindle) As the name suggests, this variety of Euonymous is a compact, small deciduous shrub. Over time, its branches develop corky ridges. Its green leaves turn a striking rosy-red in the autumn, with small green flowers that are followed by red-purple fruits which contain orange seeds. Euonymous alatus ‘Compactus’ will grow in full sun or partial shade, in either an exposed or sheltered position. It should be planted in a moist, well-drained soil, and will reach an eventual height of 0.5-1m with a spread of 1-1.5m. Euonymous europaeus ‘Red Cascade’ (Spindle – ‘Red Cascade’) Euonymous europaeus ‘Red Cascade’ is a large deciduous shrub with vigorous growth. Its oval green leaves turn a stunning bright red in the autumn. Small yellow-green flowers appear in summer, which is followed by bright pink-red fruits in the autumn. These open to reveal their brilliant orange seeds. A visit to Arundel Arboretum garden centre to see our extensive range of autumn plants in all their splendid colours is a must!  

We just love autumn! Arundel Arboretum, one of the leading Sussex garden centres continues to be transformed into a riot of dazzling autumn colours. Our Sussex garden centre takes on a new look daily with an explosion of yellows, oranges, reds and purples. Are you contemplating some new plants for your garden to plant during autumn? Autumn and winter are traditionally the best times to plant – your new trees and shrubs can establish themselves over the autumn and winter months and thus require less maintenance. The soil should still be warm from the summer and moist from the autumn rain. If you are looking to plant shrubs for autumn interest, a visit to Arundel Arboretum now will provide you with an extensive selection of shrubs displaying their stunning colours. Our knowledgeable staff will be delighted to assist you and to get you started, you may like to consider these:- Pieris japonica ‘Mountain Fire’ Pieris japonica ‘Mountain Fire’ is a medium-sized evergreen shrub. It has a bushy appearance and will eventually grow to approximately 2-4m x 2-4m. Its young red leaves will turn a coppery-green and eventually a dark green. In mid-spring, creamy-white flowers appear on its branched panicles. Happy in full sun or partial shade, but in a sheltered position. Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) Parthenocissus quinquefolia – Virginia creeper is a large, deciduous climber. It grows vigorously and will eventually reach heights of more than 12 metres! Its ovate leaves turn a fantastic bright red and orange in the autumn. Tiny green flowers can be followed by attractive blue-black berries. Parthenocissus quinquefolia will grow happily in full sun, partial shade and even shady positions, in either an exposed or sheltered position. Can also be planted in a north, south, east or west-facing location. Rhus typhina ‘Dissecta’ (Stag’s Horn Sumach) Rhus typhina ‘Dissecta’ is an open, upright deciduous shrub. Its fern-like, divided dark green leaves transform into stunning reds and oranges in the autumn. Yellow-green flowers appear during the summer and these are followed by crimson-red fruits on the female plants. Rhus typhina ‘Dissecta’ should be planted in full sun, avoiding a north-facing aspect. It will be happy in either an exposed or sheltered position.  

As January draws to a close, it is still a quiet time as far as gardening is concerned due to the frosted layers and sprinkles of snow. However, on crisp, sunny winter days, there are plenty of small jobs to be getting on with. Paying attention to the smaller jobs now will end up being rewarding later in the year. Here are a few jobs to consider getting on with now that will save you time going into the summer months: Look into plants that can still be planted this time of year; Bare root, root ball trees and shrubs are great. Have you discovered that a particular shrub or tree is in the wrong place? As long as you can move it with a good rootball, you can move it to a more suitable position in your garden. Continue to clear away dead leaves and other debris from your garden. Weeds – they are starting to appear! Keeping them under control will save a lot of hard work and time later in the year. If you have kept an area of your garden uncut as a shelter for wildlife – keep it uncut for as long as possible especially during this cold snap where wildlife needs it most. Keep bird feeders topped up with feed and fat balls. Ensure your garden birds have a fresh supply of drinking water and defrost if frozen. Bird boxes – clean out existing bird boxes so that the birds will use them again. If you don’t currently have any bird boxes in your garden – why not consider putting one up? It’s a great winter task that will help shelter birds. They should be positioned out of prevailing winds and strong sunlight. Clean garden pots, tools, water butts and greenhouses ready for the new season, saving you the task later in the year. Check stakes and ties and other supporting systems for your trees, shrubs and climbers to ensure they are doing their job properly. Adjust or replace as necessary. Wisteria – these can be pruned now. Cut back shoots by 2-3 buds on their lateral stems. This will ensure healthy blooms come the spring. Cut back ornamental grasses – they can be cut back to within a few centimetres above the ground. Prune apple and pear trees – these are best done when the trees are still dormant. Plums\cherries\apricots – leave these alone until the summer. Pruning now will make the susceptible to Silver-Leaf infections. Here at Arundel Arboretum, one of the leading garden centres in West Sussex, our friendly team are always delighted to help and assist you with any concerns you may have about what jobs to undertake now. Why not pop in and have a look around our nursery? If you are planning to plant some new trees or shrubs this year, we have an excellent range to choose from. We shall look forward to your visit.