Pines Firs and Spruce

Pines, firs, and spruce trees are popular choices for ornamental landscaping due to their striking evergreen foliage, variety of shapes, and year-round visual appeal. Pines, with their long, soft needles and often conical forms, add a classic, natural look to gardens and open spaces. Firs, known for their fragrant needles and symmetrical structure, are commonly used as Christmas trees, making them a beloved symbol of the holiday season. Spruces, with their dense, sharp needles and distinctive pyramidal shape, offer a dramatic and majestic presence, often used as focal points in landscaping. All three trees are hardy, low-maintenance, and provide excellent windbreaks and privacy screens, making them versatile and enduring additions to ornamental gardens.

Juniperus squamata 'Blue Carpet' - 40-50cm, 2lt

£15.00

Pinus nigra nigra | European Black Pine - Bonsai Cloud - Height - 85-100cm - 25lt

£240.00

Pinus parviflora 'Ara kawa'| Japanese white pine 'Negishi' - 75-85cm - 15lt

£125.00

Pinus parviflora 'Ara Kawa' is a distinctive cultivar of the Japanese White Pine (Pinus parviflora), a species native to Japan and the Korean Peninsula. Valued for its ornamental features, 'Ara Kawa' is popular among gardeners, landscapers, and bonsai enthusiasts.

This cultivar is a slow-growing, compact tree or shrub that typically reaches a height of 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 meters) and a spread of 3 to 6 feet (0.9 to 1.8 meters) after about 10 years. The growth rate of 'Ara Kawa' can be further controlled through pruning, making it suitable for various landscape designs and bonsai artistry.

'Ara Kawa' is easily recognized by its dense, irregular branching pattern and striking, contorted trunk. The bark is rough and dark brown with patches of light gray, creating a visually appealing contrast. The tree's overall form is sculptural and reminiscent of driftwood, which adds to its aesthetic value.

The needles of 'Ara Kawa' are arranged in bundles of five, a characteristic shared with other Pinus parviflora species. The needles are soft, slightly twisted, and measure between 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 centimeters) in length. They are bluish-green, providing a pleasant color contrast against the darker trunk.

The tree produces small, attractive cones that are 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 centimeters) long. They are initially green, maturing to a light brown color over time. The cones add to the visual interest of the tree, particularly during the winter months.

It prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil and should be planted in full sun for optimal growth. Once established, the tree is relatively low-maintenance, requiring only minimal pruning to maintain its shape.

Due to its unique features and adaptability, Pinus parviflora 'Ara Kawa' is an excellent choice for gardens, rockeries, and specimen planting. Its slow growth rate, compact size, and intriguing form also make it a popular choice for bonsai art, where it can be trained and shaped to accentuate its natural beauty.

Pinus Banksiana Kimmenholz | Pinus banksiana 'Kimmenholz' Jack Pine - Height 85cm - Width 60-70cm - 18lt

£116.00

Pinus Nigra Brepo - Height 50cm - Width 25-30cm - 8lt

£57.00

Pinus densiflora 'Alice Verkade' | Japanese red pine - Clear Stem 10cm - Height 60-65cm - Width 40cm - 20lt

Pinus densiflora 'Alice Verkade' | Japanese red pine - Clear Stem 10cm - Height 60-65cm - Width 40cm - 20lt

£165.00

Pinus parviflora 'Aui' | Japanese white pine - Height 60-80cm - Width 40cm - 11lt

Pinus parviflora 'Aui' | Japanese white pine - Height 60-80cm - Width 40cm - 11lt

£96.00

Pinus mugo 'Mops' | Dwarf mountain pine ' - Height 35-45cm - Width 40cm - 12lt

Pinus mugo 'Mops' | Dwarf mountain pine ' - Height 35-45cm - Width 40cm - 12lt

£94.00

Pinus parviflora 'Ara kawa' | Japanese white pine - Height 70-80cm - Width 40-50cm - 11lt

Pinus parviflora 'Ara kawa' | Japanese white pine - Height 70-80cm - Width 40-50cm - 11lt

£110.00

Pinus sylvestris 'Nana' - 70lt

£425.00

Pinus mugo 'Gnom' | Jacobsen Dwarf Pine - 45-55cm -8lt

£81.00

Pinus banksiana 'Velda' | Velda Pine - Height 55-65cm, Width 50cm - 8lt

Pinus banksiana 'Velda' | Velda Pine - Height 55-65cm, Width 50cm - 8lt

£86.00

Pinus mugo 'Pumilio' | Dwarf mountain pine - Height 25cm Width 50cm - 15lt

£66.00

Pinus mugo 'Pumilio', commonly known as the Dwarf Mountain Pine or Mugo Pine, is a dwarf evergreen coniferous shrub belonging to the Pinaceae family. This slow-growing cultivar of Pinus mugo is native to the mountainous regions of Central and Southern Europe, particularly the Alps, Carpathians, and the Balkans. It is an immensely popular choice for rock gardens, alpine gardens, and small landscapes due to its compact size and unique ornamental characteristics.

The Dwarf Mountain Pine is a versatile and hardy plant, capable of tolerating a wide range of growing conditions. It can withstand cold temperatures down to -30°F (-34°C). It prefers well-draining, sandy or rocky soils and adapts to various soil pH levels. While it flourishes in full sunlight, it can also tolerate partial shade.

'Pumilio' is a dense, mounded cultivar with a height and spread of 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5 meters) upon reaching maturity. Its slow growth rate of 1-3 inches (2.5-7.5 cm) per year makes it an ideal choice for small gardens, containers, or bonsai culture. The attractive, dark green needles are stiff and sharply pointed, typically arranged in pairs and measuring 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) in length.

This cultivar is known for its visually striking and irregular branching habit, which contributes to its unique appearance. The branches are often twisted or contorted, creating an interesting texture that adds visual interest to a landscape. The bark is rough and grayish-brown, becoming more fissured as the plant ages.

In late spring or early summer, 'Pumilio' produces small, cylindrical cones that emerge reddish-brown and mature to a dark brown color. The cones, which measure approximately 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) in length, add an additional ornamental element to the plant.

Drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, Pinus mugo 'Pumilio' is resistant to pests and diseases, making it a reliable choice for various landscape applications. Its compact size, unique form, and year-round visual interest make it a popular choice among gardeners and landscapers seeking an eye-catching and resilient plant to enhance their outdoor spaces.

Pinus mugo 'Ophir' | dwarf mountain pine 'Ophir' - Height 80cm Width 70-80cm - 65lt

£402.00

Pinus mugo 'Grune Welle' | Dwarf Mountain Pinecm - 75-85cm, 5lt

£76.00

Pinus parviflora 'Fuku-Zu-Mi' | Fukuzumi White Pine - Height 60cm - Width 140cm - 80lt

Pinus parviflora 'Fuku-Zu-Mi' | Fukuzumi White Pine - Height 60cm - Width 140cm - 80lt

£950.00

Pinus mugo mughus |Dwarf Mountain Pine - Height 40-60cm - 5lt

£70.00

Pinus mugo 'Krauskopf' | Dwarf mountain pine - Height 70-80cm - Width 40cm - 18lt

£105.00

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Olive Tree Care Guide: How to Grow Healthy Olive Trees at Home

by Arundel Arboretum on May 12, 2025

If you want a touch of Mediterranean tranquillity and timeless beauty in your garden, plant olive trees! Yes, growing them outside their native climate can be tricky - but with the right care, it’s absolutely possible. This practical olive tree care and maintenance guide will help you understand what olive trees need to thrive. Olive trees can be grown both in containers and in the ground, depending on your space and climate. Each option comes with slightly different care needs, so we’ll share clear tips to help you succeed whatever approach you choose. How to Care for Olive Trees in Pots Olive trees in pots and containers are a great way to bring Mediterranean feel to small gardens, patios, and balconies no matter where you live. They are especially useful for colder areas as they can be moved indoors during the winter. Choosing the Right Container To keep your olive tree healthy and comfortable, choose a large and sturdy pot that gives the roots enough room to grow. It should be at least 40cm wide and deep. Drainage holes at the bottom are essential since olive trees hate waterlogged soil. Terracotta pots are ideal as they provide excellent airflow and drainage. The Best Spot for Potted Olive Tree Place your olive tree in the sunniest, warmest spot you can find. These Mediterranean plants love sun and need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. If possible, place them against a south-facing wall for extra warmth and wind protection. That’s especially helpful in colder UK regions where sunlight is less intense. The Best Soil for Olive Trees in Pots While planting in the ground can be limiting because of the garden’s natural soil type, planting in containers allows you to create the perfect blend of soil from the start. A loam-based compost, like John Innes No. 3 is ideal for olive trees grown in containers. It has a lot of nutrients and lets water flow through. To improve drainage and aeration, mix in grit, perlite, or sharp sand. Avoid moisture-retentive composts as they can lead to root rot. Best Soil Mix for Olive Trees in Containers:• 60-70% loam-based compost• 20-30% horticultural grit or sharp sand (for better drainage and airflow)• 5-10% of perlite or fine bark (optional, for additional aeration)• A handful of garden lime (optional, if the mix is too acidic) How Often to Water Olive Trees in Containers Olive trees come from hot and dry regions where the soil drains quickly. They are naturally drought-tolerant and don’t like excess moisture. When grown in the UK, overwatering is one of the biggest mistakes gardeners make. With less sun and more moisture, the soil stays wet longer which can lead to root rot. The golden rule is – only water when the top few centimetres of soil feel completely dry. How to Feed Olive Trees in Containers Feed your potted olive trees every 4 to 6 weeks during spring and summer. The best fertilisers for potted olive trees is balanced liquid fertilisers or those formulated for fruiting trees, high in potassium. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers as they can lead to excessive leaf growth. Never feed in autumn and winter. To prevent root burn, water thoroughly before you apply fertiliser. How to Protect Potted Olive Trees in Winter UK Potted trees are more vulnerable to frost, therefore, they need to be protected during the winter. Here is how:• Move the pot to a sheltered spot. Ideally, place them in a greenhouse or unheated conservatory. If you don’t have them, move them to the porch or by a south-facing wall. • Wrap the pot, not the plant. Wrap the container with fleece, bubble wrap, or hessian to protect the roots. • Raise the pot off the ground. Prevent it from sitting in cold and wet conditions.• Reduce watering. Water only occasionally throughout the winter.• Use fleece covers. On very cold nights, cover the plant with horticultural fleece but remove it during the day. How to Grow Olive Trees in the Ground Best Garden Location for Olive Trees Olive trees love sun and where you place them in your garden makes all the difference. They need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, so a south or south-west facing spot is ideal. Planting near a brick or stone wall can be helpful, too. Walls soak the heat during the day and release it at night. Avoid low spots or hollows where cold air and water can collect. Olive trees hate wet and shady areas. Best Soil for Olive Trees in the Ground In their native habitat, olive trees grow in dry and rocky soil. They prefer well-drained soil with neutral to slightly alkaline pH. When you touch it, it shouldn’t feel sticky and heavy, but light and crumbly. If your soil isn’t ideal improve it by adding sand or grit. Avoid overly rich composts that retain moisture. How to Water Olive Trees in the Ground Newly planted olive trees need regular watering during the first year. This means watering once or twice a week. After the first year, olive trees become tolerant to drought. In most UK gardens, natural rainfall is enough, but during very hot days, if the topsoil looks dry, give it a good soak. How to Feed and Mulch Olive Trees in the Ground Olive trees planted in the ground do not need heavy feeding. Apply a balanced fertiliser or a potassium-rich fertiliser for fruit trees in early spring, and again in midsummer. Avoid too much nitrogen because you will get a lot of foliage and little fruit. Mulch in spring with well-rotted compost or bark chips to suppress weeds and retain moisture. In winter, mulch to insulate the roots. Winter Protection for Olive Trees in the Ground Olive trees planted in the ground are more resilient than potted ones. They can tolerate cold down to around -10 °C but they still need protection in colder parts of the UK. Here is how to protect olive trees from frost: • Check soil drainage. Make sure your soil doesn’t hold water after rain. If it does improve drainage.• Apply a thick mulch. In autumn, mulch around the base of the tree to insulate roots.• Stop watering and fertilising. During the winter, a tree enters a natural dormant state.• Wrap young trees. With horticulture fleece or breathable fabric, loosely wrap the canopy of young trees during severe frosts.• Monitor the weather. During extremely harsh winters, wrap even mature olive trees. Young vs. Mature Olive Trees: Pruning Guide Pruning is very important for healthy growth. How and why you prune slightly differ depending on the tree’s age and if the tree is planted in the ground or in a pot. Young olive trees, whether potted or not, need good formative pruning to establish a strong, open structure. When buying a young olive tree, look for one with a single straight trunk and evenly spaced side branches. In the first few years, remove any weak, crossing, or overly vertical branches. The goal is to achieve good airflow and balanced growth. Mature olive trees need regular but light annual pruning. Every year, remove dead, damaged, or crowded growth. The goal is to maintain good airflow and manage the tree’s size. Trees planted in the ground can tolerate more vigorous pruning, while potted olive trees should be pruned more gently to avoid stressing the plant. Seasonal Care Calendar for Olive Trees UK This simple calendar will help you stay on track and keep your olive trees happy and healthy all year round. Spring (March–May)• Feed: Start monthly feeding.• Water: Increase watering. Water only when soil is dry.• Prune: Remove dead or damaged branches.• Repot: Best time to repot if roots are crowded Summer (June–August)• Feed: Continue feeding every 4–6 weeks.• Water: Water regularly in hot weather. Avoid overwatering.• Position: Keep in full sun. Protect from strong winds Autumn (September–November)• Feed: Stop feeding by late September.• Water: Reduce watering frequency.• Check: Look for pests and clean foliage before moving indoors. Winter (December–February)• Protect: Move to a frost-free, sheltered spot or indoors.• Water: Water only when soil is completely dry.• Insulate: Wrap pots and elevate them from the ground. Regional Olive Tree Care Tips for UK Gardeners Some regional differences within the UK may affect how you care for your olive trees. Here is what to keep in mind: Growing Olive Trees in Southern UK• Olive trees can be kept outdoors most of the year.• On frosty days, in-ground trees must be protected.• Watering and feeding may last a bit longer into the autumn because of longer growing season. Growing Olive Trees in Northern UK & Scotland• Winters are much colder so the trees should be brought indoors during the winter.• Strong winds are another problem therefore the trees must be sheltered.• Watering and feeding should start later because the spring arrives later. Growing Olive Trees in Coastal Areas• Mild winters of coastal areas are ideal for olive trees. They can spend the winter outside without a problem.• They are resistant to salty air and wind, but some damage may still occur.• Windbreaks or sheltered spots are essential for protection from strong winds. We hope that you’ll find this simple guide for maintaining olive trees helpful. If you are thinking about buying olive trees for your garden, visit us at Arundel Arboretum in West Sussex or browse our online store. And if you need any advice, our team is always happy to help you choose your perfect tree. FAQ How long do olive trees live?The average life span of an olive tree is around 500 years, but they can live much longer. In the Mediterranean area, some are more than 2000 old and the oldest known olive tree is estimated to be 4000 years old. In the UK, they won’t reach these extreme ages but can live for many decades with proper care. Can I grow an olive tree indoors?Olive trees need at least six hours of direct sunlight every day which is very hard to achieve indoors. If you decide to keep it inside, place it by the south-facing window and make sure the room has good airflow. Can olive trees survive UK winters?Yes, olive trees can survive UK winters, especially in milder southern regions. Mature trees tolerate temperatures down to -10°C. However, they usually have to be protected from frost. Young and potted trees are more vulnerable and it’s best to take them indoors during low temperatures. Do I need more than one olive tree for it to produce fruit? Most olive trees are self-fertile, but having more than one can increase yields, especially if you’re growing them in the UK. Why is my olive tree not fruiting in the UK?Here are a few common reasons:• The tree is still too young• It doesn’t get enough sunlight or warmth• Flowering branches were accidentally pruned• Colder UK areas may not be adequate for fruiting How long does it take for an olive tree to bear fruit?If the conditions are right, olive trees usually bear fruit after 3 to 5 years. In the UK, it may take a bit longer because of the climate. Do olive trees have deep roots?Olive trees usually have shallow and wide-spreading roots. They are not invasive, therefore, generally safe to plant near walls or patios. Can you eat olives off the tree?No, because they are very bitter. How quickly do olive trees grow?Olive trees are slow to moderate growers. In the UK, they typically grow 10 to 30 cm per year. Container trees grow even slower.

The Ultimate Guide to Planting Fruit Trees

by Arundel Arboretum on Feb 10, 2025

Planting a fruit tree is not just about digging a hole in the ground and dropping the plant in. If you want your fruit tree to thrive, you have to give it the best possible start. Therefore, we have put together the ultimate guide on how to plant fruit trees. The guide will walk you through the best time to plant fruit trees and the essential steps to do it right. Why is this so important? First of all, proper planting ensures a strong root system, which provides water and nutrients to the tree. A well-developed root system leads to a stronger plant that can better handle environmental stresses like drought, pests, and diseases. On the other hand, any damage caused during planting forces the tree to redirect its energy toward recovery and healing instead of growth and development. That weakens its ability to grow leaves, flowers, and fruit. So, it is exceptionally important for fruit trees to be planted correctly if you want them to grow strong and healthy and bring an abundance of high-quality fruit. Therefore, we have prepared the ultimate guide to planting fruit trees to help you enjoy your fruit garden for years to come. When Is the Best Time to Plant Fruit Trees Container-grown trees can be planted almost any time of the year, but the ideal periods are late autumn (after the leaves drop) or early spring (before buds break). If you are wondering why, here are the key reasons. Why Late Autumn Is the Best Time to Plant Fruit Trees Dormancy: Trees are not actively growing so the stress of transplantation is minimal. Soil Temperature: The soil is still warm enough to make soil preparation easier and enable root development. Moisture: Late autumn rains keep the soil wet and help the newly planted trees establish their roots. Time to Establish: By spring, roots are established without spending energy on leaf growth or budding. Less Competition from Weeds: Cold weather slows weed growth and young trees have less competition for nutrients. Why Early Spring Is the Best Time to Plant Fruit Trees Dormancy: Trees are still dormant or just beginning to wake up which reduces the transplant stress. Soil Temperature: The soil is warmer, no longer frozen or covered by snow, and ready to be prepared for planting. Moisture: Spring soil has enough moisture from snow melt which makes it perfect for root development without additional watering. No Frost Damage: Planting fruit trees in spring ensures roots won’t be damaged by winter frost, especially in colder climates. Our Recommendations: In milder climates where the ground doesn’t freeze, we recommend planting fruit trees in late autumn (October and November). This gives the root system more time to develop and prepare for the growing season. In the UK, late autumn planting is suitable for Southwest England, South Coast, and urban areas where winters are mild and frost risk low. Early spring planting (February and March) is more adequate for colder regions to avoid frost damage to unestablished root systems. Late spring frosts may pose a challenge but this risk can be managed with careful planning. Regions that are suitable for spring planting are Scotland, Northern England, and upland areas of Wales, where winters are harsher and longer. Choosing the Perfect Spot in Your Garden Finding the best place for fruit trees in your garden is essential if you want them to be healthy and productive. It’s all about giving them what they need to grow strong and bear plenty of fruit. Here are some key things to consider when choosing the perfect spot for your fruit trees: Sunlight Sunlight is absolutely vital for keeping your fruit trees healthy and happy. Sun gives them the energy to thrive and produce an abundance of delicious fruit. With enough direct sunlight, your fruit will develop vibrant colours, rich flavours, and natural sweetness. Without it, they may grow weak, produce fewer blossoms, and yield smaller fruit of lower quality. Tip: Choose a warm, sunny spot in your garden with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day to keep your fruit trees at their best. Soil The right soil is just as important as sunlight. Fruit trees prefer nutrient-rich, moist, but well-drained soil that can provide enough nutrients and allow roots to absorb them. Heavy, compacted soils hold too much water and can lead to root rot so avoid them or improve them by adding organic matter like compost. Tip: Take the time to test and improve your soil before planting your fruit trees. Pear trees (especially Asian pears) and certain plum trees are more tolerant of heavy and wet soils. Wind Protection Fruit trees need to be sheltered from strong, harsh winds as they can uproot young trees, weaken their stability, and cause damage by breaking branches, stripping leaves, or knocking off flowers and young fruit. Cold winter winds are another threat – they can dry out the tree and cause bark to crack, especially on trees with thin bark, like cherries and apples. Tip: Protect your fruit trees by planting them near windbreaks like walls, fences, or hedges. Add mulch around the base to insulate the roots. If needed, use burlap wraps - protective coverings designed to protect trees, especially fruit trees, from harsh conditions. Space for Growth Fruit trees need plenty of room to grow. The size and variety of your tree will determine how much space it needs. Crowded trees compete for light, water, and nutrients which can weaken their health. Poor spacing also limits airflow around the canopy which can create an environment perfect for fungal infections and diseases. Proper spacing is, therefore, essential for fruit trees. Tip: If the space in your garden is limited, try a clever space-saving technique called espalier. This method involves training a tree to grow flat, like a two-dimensional painting. Espalier not only saves space but also maximizes sunlight exposure which can boost fruit production. How to Prepare Soil for Planting Fruit Trees Poor soil is a major problem when it comes to fruit trees. It can stunt growth and lower fruit quality so, before you plant, test your soil. Making small improvements can make a huge difference. Here is a simple guide to help you test and improve your soil. pH Levels: Fruit trees prefer slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally between 6.0 to 7.0. If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it may be difficult for a tree to absorb nutrients. Some trees may be considered exceptions, like citrus trees, which like slightly more acidic soil or olive trees, which can tolerate slightly alkaline soils Tip: You can easily adjust soil’s pH levels by adding things like lime to raise pH (make it less acidic) or sulphur to lower pH (make it more acidic). Nutrient Levels: The most important nutrients for fruit trees are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Nitrogen supports overall growth and healthy foliage, phosphorus helps the root development and supports the growth of flowers and fruit, while potassium influences overall tree health and fruit quality. If there is an imbalance of these nutrients, fruit trees can have serious issues. Tip: To solve nutrient deficiencies, use adequate fertilizers. Adding organic matter like compost or peat moss is also a fantastic way to improve soil quality. Be careful with nitrogen. It provides vigorous growth but too much of it can reduce fruit production. Drainage: Fruit trees don’t like waterlogged soils. Too much water can cause root rot, so having well-drained soil is essential for their health. Tip: If you don’t know whether your soil is waterlogged, perform a simple test. Dig a hole about 30cm deep and fill it with water. Check it in 24 hours. If the water is still there, your soil has poor drainage. To fix it, add some sand or gravel to improve water flow. How to Dig the Right Hole for a Fruit Tree It may sound a bit unnecessary to explain how to dig a hole, but there are a few simple rules that may not be widely known. And a well-dug hole can make a difference for your fruit tree. Here is a short and simple, step-by-step guide on how to dig the right hole for your tree and plant it successfully. Measure the root ball to calculate how deep and wide a hole should be. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball. The tree must not settle too low because that can cause a trunk to rot. The hole must be 2-3 times wider than the root ball. Roots need space to spread. Loosen the bottom and the sides of the hole to make it easier for the roots to penetrate the ground. Mix the soil you dug out with compost or organic matter. You will use that later for refilling. Do not apply too much fertilizer because it can burn young roots. Place the tree in the hole. The spot where the trunk meets the roots should be at or slightly above the ground. Do not bury the trunk! Backfill the hole with the mix you have previously prepared. Gently tamp down the soil to remove air pockets. Water the tree abundantly. Add mulch 5-10 cm around the base but leave some space around the trunk And there you have it! Your tree is planted with knowledge and care and set up for success!

#Fruit trees

Tree Specifications Made Simple: An Essential Guide for Buyers

by Arundel Arboretum on Jan 15, 2025

Ever feel like choosing the right tree for your garden is way more complicated than it should be? With all the different options and confusing terms, it’s like wandering through the maze without a map. We get it and we are here to help! This article will guide you through different types of trees with clear, easy-to-understand explanations of key terms to make your tree selection as simple as possible. What Is a Grafted Tree? Let’s start with the term “grafted,” as it's commonly seen in tree specifications. Grafting is a clever way to grow trees that are both beautiful and tough, blending the best traits of two plants into one tree! A grafted tree is created by joining the top part of one tree (scion) with the root system of another tree (rootstock). The top part may be chosen for its fruit, flowers, or lush foliage. The rootstock is often selected for its strength, pest and disease resistance, or ability to adapt to certain soils. Top-Grafted Trees Top-grafted trees are created by attaching the top part of one plant to the trunk of another plant at a higher point on the trunk. With this technique, we can create unique and interesting tree shapes, like a ball-shaped canopy on a tall trunk. For example, a top-grafted weeping willow develops a tall, elegant look, while a top-grafted rose forms a small "tree" covered in blooms. Bottom-Grafted Trees Bottom-grafted trees are made by attaching the top of one plant to the root system of another plant close to the ground. This technique combines the qualities of the top part with the toughness and resilience of a certain rootstock. The result is a stronger and healthier tree. Great examples of bottom-grafted trees are fruit trees and some cherry blossoms. A Guide to Different Tree Types Let’s see what each tree type means and how their shapes and structures differ.Understanding these will help you choose the perfect fit for your garden. Standard Tree (Full-Standard, Std) Single, tall, straight trunk 1.8m+ height Broad, spreading canopy Description: Standard Tree is usually a natural tree that develops on its own rootstock without any grafting. Nurseries sometimes label certain grafted trees as "standard" if they have a similar form. Standard trees have a single straight trunk, clear of branches up to at least 1,8m, with a broad, spreading canopy above. They typically reach a mature height of 6m and more. Suggested Uses: Standard trees are ideal for a focal point in landscapes, especially in large gardens, and excellent choice for parks and streets. They offer shade, privacy, and a habitat for wildlife. Care Tips: Standard trees need regular pruning and can benefit from staking when young until they develop a sturdy structure. Half-Standard Tree (HS,1/2 Standard, 1/2 Std) Single, short, clear trunk 1.2-1.5m in height Rounded, compact canopy Ideal for small spaces Description: Half-standard tree has a clear, single trunk that reaches about 1.2-1.5 metres in height and a compact, rounded canopy. It has an ornamental “lollipop" look which is very popular in landscaping. Half-standard trees are not always grafted. That depends on the tree variety and the desired characteristics. Non-Grafted Half-Standard Trees grow naturally into this form without grafting, but are usually pruned to maintain the lollipop shape. Grafted Half-Standard Trees are grafted to control the size and ensure uniform growth and consistent canopy shape. They are more reliable for decorative purposes. Suggested Uses: Half-standard trees are perfect for formal landscaping and great for garden borders, walkways, and focal points in small gardens. They are very well suited for growing in containers. Care Tips: Half-standard trees require regular pruning to maintain their distinctive lollipop form. If grown in containers, they need constant watering and fertilization. Quarter-Standard Tree (QS, 1/4 Standard, 1/4 Std) Short trunk 0.5-1m in height Dense, rounded canopy Ideal for pots and containers Description: A quarter-standard tree is very similar to a half-standard tree but its trunk is shorter, below 1.2m in height, typically between 0.5-1m. Its canopy is dense and rounded, creating a tidy, lollipop-like shape. Suggested Uses: Due to their small size and structured appearance, quarter-standard trees are very popular in ornamental landscaping. They are perfect for growing in pots and containers, and therefore, ideal for small places like patios and balconies. Care Tips: Due to their limited space in containers, quarter-standard trees require regular watering and fertilization. They also need to be sheltered from strong winds. Feathered Tree (Fth) Single main stem Branches from base up Dense, full foliage Natural, bushy appearance Description: A feathered tree has a single main stem and evenly spaced lateral branches, usually from the ground up. The lowest branches are positioned less than 25cm from the ground. It has a natural, bushy, and feathery look. The average height varies depending on the species. They typically grow from 3 to 6 meters, but some species can grow up to 10m and more. Suggested Uses: Feathered trees are ideal for informal and woodland-style landscapes, natural-looking hedges, and privacy screens. They are valuable for attracting and sheltering wildlife. Care Tips: Feathered trees require minimal pruning and are an excellent choice for lush, naturalistic landscapes. They are, generally, resilient and adaptable to various soil types and environments. Multi-Stemmed Tree (MS) Multiple stems from the base Bushy, spreading crown Unique, architectural look Description: A multi-stemmed tree has multiple stems emerging from a single root or just above the ground. Its open structure, along with a bushy and spreading crown, creates a visually striking silhouette and provides a natural, architectural look. The average height of multi-stemmed trees can vary based on the species, but generally range between 3 to 6 metres. Suggested Uses: A multi-stemmed tree with its unique shape is ideal as a focal point in landscape design. It’s great for natural privacy screens, adding depth to borders, or softening landscape edges. Care Tips: Multi-stemmed trees need room to spread as their crowns take up more horizontal space than single-stemmed trees. They also appreciate slightly sheltered locations. Pleached Tree (Espalier) Single, tall, clear stem Structured horizontal branches Needs support framework Description: A pleached tree has a single clear stem with a crown of branches trained to grow horizontally along a supporting frame. The stem is usually around 1.8-2m long while the crown is shaped in different styles – panel, box, umbrella, and more. Pleached trees bear their foliage, flowers, and fruit as usual, but their growth is restricted. Suggested Uses: Pleached trees are usually used to create an aerial screen above a fence or a wall. When planted in a row, they resemble a hedge on stilts. They are ideal for adding height to garden borders. Care Tips: Pleached trees require regular pruning and training to maintain their shape and sturdy frame to support their branches. Girth and Litres You may have seen terms like 'girth' and 'litres' in tree specifications which can be quite confusing. What exactly is “girth” and why are trees measured in litres? Let’s clear it up! What is Girth? Girth is the circumference of the stem measured 1 metre from the ground. Girth is a more reliable measure of a tree’s maturity than height. For example, a tree might be 2m tall but thin and only a year old, while another tree could be 2m tall, but with a thick trunk and around 10 years old. What Does Girth Tell Us? Most trees grow around 2cm in girth every year. Therefore, a tree with 8-10cm girth is most probably 4-5 years old. Generally, the larger the girth, the older and more established the tree. Why are Trees Measured in Litres? When you see “litres” in tree specifications, it tells you the size of the pot the tree is growing in. A higher litre number means a larger pot, and usually a bigger and more mature tree. In Conclusion We hope this guide will help you make informed and confident choices when selecting trees for your garden. With the right knowledge, you can create your piece of paradise and enjoy it for years to come. If you need any further assistance, do not hesitate to reach out. Our team is here to help you and support you every step of the way.

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